How to Grow Wheat grass

Wheatberries

The whole process from sprouting to harvesting takes about a week.  First, you need to buy some winter wheat berries (or hard wheat berries), preferably organic! Go to any good health food store with bulk supplies. They are a reddish, hard grain.
Rinse the wheat berries then place them in a wide-mouth jar or a bowl and cover them with water. Cover the bowl with a towel or cheesecloth and let sit overnight (12 hours). Rinse the wheat berries then let them remain damp (a wet paper towel on top of them can help) for the next 12 hours. Rinse them at least once during this period. If it is very hot and therefore bacterial growth is a concern, add a drop of bleach to the water you originally soak the wheat berries in (1 tsp bleach per gallon of water is a general guideline).
After this 24 hour period you will see that the wheat berries have begun to sprout. Now you’ll want to “plant” your wheat berries. I use special flats to do this. They are plastic square containers with small holes for drainage. Most good nurseries can supply you with one. You can also use plastic cafeteria trays or pie pans, but the container should be very shallow, and it is best if you can add some small drainage holes. Add about 1 inch of soil (a 50:50 mixture of top soil and peat moss is best) and make it flat and even. Add your sprouted wheat berries and spread them into a flat, single layer. Sprinkle a tiny bit of water (don’t over water or you’ll get moldy seeds!). You can either cover this tray or place the tray in a dark closet (this mimics the period in nature when the seed is under the ground).
After about two days the seeds will have hearty stalks of grass sprouting from them. You can now let them be exposed to the sun (but make sure it has shade).

Flats for growing wheatgrass

Water the flat then let it grow for another 4 or 5 days. Voila! Fresh wheatgrass for a handful of change (1 lb of berries is about 80¢ and makes a flat).
Cut the grass with scissors and feed it to your birds.
You should start another flat right away, since wheatgrass is best on its first growth so should not be used again. You can use the second-growth grass as compost (some people do use the second growth, then compost the remainder).
Feeding Wheatgrass
Like all things, don’t go overboard. Wheatgrass is high in iron so you don’t want to overload your birds’ diet with it.  Three to four times a week is sufficient, and just a handful of grass is enough each time. Cut the grass about an inch up from the seed and serve. There is no need to worry about the grass spoiling in the cage, another great benefit of this green food.  If you are concerned about bacteria or mold at the base of the grass, after cutting, soak the grass in a quart of water with 5 drops of grapefruit seed extract for 5 minutes, rinse thoroughly, then serve.
Troubleshooting
My wheat berries won’t sprout, or only a few sprout.
The problem could be old, “dead” seeds that have been sitting on a grocery store shelf for to long. Try to buy at health food stores that supply bulk seeds and grains and refresh their supplies on a regular basis.
My wheatgrass has some moldy areas around the roots.
The problem could be overwatering. Water only enough to give moisture, not so that mold can grow. If you are worried about mold and bacteria that you cannot see, cut the grass about 1 inch up from the seed/roots; soak the grass in a solution of water and 5-10 drops of grapefruit seed extract for 5 minutes. Rinse the grass thoroughly, then serve.
My wheatgrass is limp and droopy.
The problem could be too much sun. Wheatgrass grows best in indirect light, under the shade of a tree or the like.

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A special note for skeptics and those who dismiss anything that does not come encased in a gelatin capsule or does not require a medical prescription…

Who has studied the effects of young grasses in vivo or in vitro?   Yoshide Hagiwara, MD; Tsuneo Kada (Japan Research Center of Genetics); Dr. Chiu-Nan Lai (University of Texas); Dr. Arthur Robinson (Linus Pauling Institute); Dr. Thelma Arthur (Arthur Testing Laboratory); Dr. Yasuo Hotta (University of California, San Diego). This is only a partial listing of scientists studying the effects of young grasses.  Below are references from the world biomedical literature (much of it from peer-reviewed medical journals) on the effects of phytochemicals and chlorophyll-related compounds.
Remember, wheatgrass is not a drug or herb. It is a living food. By harvesting and juicing the grass, then drinking it immediately, you are ingesting a very live, nutritious green juice. The American Cancer Society and the National Institute of Cancer advice all of us to increase the number of green vegetables in our diet. One ounce of wheatgrass juice can make a significant difference in your diet. It is accepted fact that green foods are nutritious and have both antimutagenic and antigenotoxic benefits. The nutritional analysis of wheatgrass is scientific fact. Put two and two together, and it is not difficult to see why this is such a beneficial food for your diet as well as your birds.
Much of this information I learned from a grower at my Farmers’ Market and from the bible of wheatgrass: “The Wheatgrass Book” by Ann Wigmore, which is available in the Parrot-Parrot Book Store and contains much more detailed information; it is a must in any sprouter’s library!

Get To Know These Four Types Of Finches

by: Kevin Green

Finches have been kept as pets for hundreds of years. And because of its popularity among bird lovers, they have been cross-bred many times that you could actually now enjoy different types of finches. An amazing thing about finches is that they are completely sociable and are at home in aviaries and cages. In fact, it is said that there are more finches being domesticated than being set free in the wild. With proper guidance and rearing, your finches can thrive in a man-made ecosystem and can live for several years.

There are about 145 species of these birds around the world. About 16 varieties of finches live and thrive in the United States. Although it is a small percentage compared to the actual number of finch species, it is enough for many pet lovers to enjoy different types of birds in their homes. Among the characteristics common to all finches are their conical bills and colorful, vibrant plumage.

Lawrence’s Goldfinch - Abundance of seeds and water attracts the Lawrence’s Goldfinch. According to published studies, they stay in one place for one year and then migrate to another the following year. The Lawrence’s Goldfinch differ from the American Goldfinch in that it has less yellow plumage compared to the latter. Their movement is usually east to west rather than northwards or southwards. They settle on fields with plenty of weeds and in areas where there are many seeds and grasses. The Lawrence Goldfinch is one of the popular types of finches that are considered as hobby birds.

Zebra finches – This type of finch is definitely a popular choice by bird enthusiasts. One thing that stands out about them is their zebra strips on the tail, which is alternatively black and white. They are also among the most colorful of the types of finches and are really attractive when placed in a garden. Because they don’t require too much maintenance, Zebra finches are also recommended for beginners. If you want to learn how to raise birds, start with this breed because they are easy to keep and maintain.

Red Crossbill – The Crossbill is found mostly in coniferous forests in the continental United States as well as Canada. They have the ability to breed during winter seasons, which is uncommon among the several types of finches. They can survive well in fluctuating seasons, but make sure that you keep the temperature of the cage just about right to ensure their safety and health. The way they extract seeds from coniferous trees is that they bite the cones down using their crossed beak until the scales begin to open.

Pine Grosbeak - The Pine Grosbeak is among the largest types of finches. They can grow up to 10 inches in length and can survive in the wild in different weathers. One peculiar characteristics of the Pine Grosbeak is that they their somewhat slow movements especially when looking for food. They can mostly be found in Canada and northern United States. They usually come in large groups and forage for food in groups.

Best Dogs for families- Top 3 best dog breeds for families

 by: Kristle yik

How do you find a best dog breeds for your family? First, you should start with doing some research into all the different dog breeds that you like. You should research all the breeds that you like carefully and choose the one are very suitable to your family's lifestyle. A wonderful dog can teach children all about love, and growing up with your children together, your children will cherish for a life time. Here are a list of the top 3 best dog breeds for families.

Golden Retriever- Golden Retrievers are the one of the most popular family dog breeds in the United States. They are very gentle and always patient with the children. They are lovable, well mannered dog with a great charm. They are a friendly, and loyal dog. They are intelligent so that they are easy to train dog breeds. Their life expectancy are about 10-12 years.

Miniature Schnauzer- the Miniature Schnauzer is an loving, playful, and happy dog. They are very intelligent, devoted and affectionate. They are good with the children and can get along with other dogs and small pets. They are a good family companion pets. The miniature schnauzer is also a good dog for aprtment life. Their coat are also a good dog for apartment life. Their coat are also not hard to groom, it may need some care. Their life expectancy are about 15 years.

Labrador Retriever- labrador retriever is another great retriever does very well in any home. They also is one of the most popular dog breeds in United States. They are highly intelligent, loyal, affectionate and eager to please dogs. They are friendly, loving, and superb good with the children and also with other dogs and small pets. Labradors are very easy to train and obedience dog. The only negative thing about this dog is they can be a picky eater. Their life expectancy are about 10-12 years.

The all dog breeds above are generally as the best dog breeds for families, while there are always have an exception to the rules. Understand all dog breeds at www.dogbreeds-and-doggie.com

Tips For a Healthy Cat

 by: Todd Rip

If you love your cat you’ll want to know how to keep your cat as healthy as possible. There are many different things that could come into play and be dangerous to your cat's health, so it's important to know what to look for to keep your cat healthy her entire life.

The typical house cat will go through three main life stages. The exact duration of each stage varies between different cats and different breeds, but the time frame is generally quite similar between cats. Cats begin their lives as kittens, and during this process they are constantly growing and developing. It's very important to make sure they are getting proper nutrition and care during this time, as they are especially vulnerable to disease and the elements when young. Make sure your kitten is warm at all times, and is eating a healthy diet of nutritious food. You should also take your kitten to the vet to get shots to protect it against diseases, and to get it spayed or neutered. Kittens have usually reached adult cat hood at around one year old, though some kittens continue growing until they're over two years old.

Once your cat has reached adulthood, the point where she has stopped growing, she continues to live a normal adult life, until around age eight or nine. During this time as an adult, your cat is stronger, and less vulnerable to the dangers that are posed as a kitten. However, your focus should be switched to maintaining a healthy adult cat, in addition to protecting your cat from possible health risks as an older cat. Keeping your adult cat at a healthy weight is also important, as an overweight cat is more likely to get other health problems.

Annual trips to the vet should be a top priority, to check up on your cat's health and detect any problems early. You should also keep your eyes peeled for the first signs of diseases that show up in older cats, like heart disease and feline diabetes.

Cats over the age of eight or nine are considered senior cats, entering their last stages of life. However, there is still much that can be done to ensure your senior cat has a healthy life. It's a good idea to go to the vet twice a year at this point as an additional step to detect any health problems early. Focusing on dental health is also very important now, and it may be necessary to adjust your senior cat's diet to accommodate any health issues. For example, a cat with weak teeth may need a more moist diet, while an overweight cat should go on a weight control diet. These tips can ensure your cat will live a happy, healthy life.

Parrot Food: Which Types to Feed Your Pet

 by: Paul Nedrich

There was a time when parrot food was only about seeds. This really is so simply because seed products are thought to contain the the majority of vitamins and minerals that are essential for bird development. Seeds are likewise the most typical element in a bird's diet plan. The commercially created ones usually might have the balance and various types that a normal bird will need. But these times, seeds aren't the sole ones that are being given to these avian species. As bird breeders grow in knowledge and expertise in coping with their pets, they are now a lot more mindful of the numerous outcomes of diverse foods to their pet parrots. The pellet is yet another choice apart from seeds. Some would probably declare that pellets are actually healthier for a bird's diet plan than seeds. One of the explanations may be that pellets give ideal nutrients and the entire nugget is digestible. Compared to the seed that leaves the hull behind, the pellet is completely edible and therefore there is absolutely no waste product that comes about along the way.

Another food alternative that bird breeders have is to get organic and natural. Whatever this entails is offering food item that is natural or fresh or home made. This might possibly include fruits, pasta, vegetables and some vitamins and mineral supplements. But bird breeders should always understand that just before offering their bird any of these or picking out this sort of eating plan, an overall consultation with a veterinarian should be done first. A veterinarian can really help pick which combination of a range of food would have the correct quantity and right form of nutrition the pet bird should have.

Some of the concerns for this would be that table food or "human food" that is fed to birds may not be acceptable for them if they possess an excessive amount of sodium or if the size is not suitable for the bird. Small sizes should be taken into account when serving these especially when giving nuts. A justification that this kind of feeding is looked at is for variation. In reality, avian species also get tired of having to eat the same thing again and again. Not to mention that they may not be receiving adequate and assorted nutrients from the same food. Bear this always in mind when giving parrot food. Furthermore, do not ignore the need to consult with a veterinarian first before making a choice which diet program to pick.

It's well known that we now have food sorts which are good and helpful for your bird's health and fitness. In contrast, there are also food varieties which should be prevented at all costs. Samples of these would be foods that are too salty or too sweet. Those with alcohol and caffeine should also be prevented. Also included in this list are garlic and onions. Curry powder is a no-no. Mushrooms are not motivated too because some forms may contain fungus that can detrimental to your bird's health. As well as leaves that are found in tomatoes. Avocados in their entirety are also unhealthy for your bird as they can cause cardiac arrest. Stay away also from plants such as amaryllis, shamrock, azaleas, lantana, and daffodil among a good many others. These types of plants could bring different kinds of health issues that can range between gastrointestinal problems to depression.

Certainly, picking out which parrot food to feed your bird is something that is not done flippantly. Nonetheless just do bear in mind that what is healthy for you may also be healthy for him but consider so when you have got the consent of the veterinarian. You would know that you are doing a fantastic job at taking care of your pet if his feathers are gleaming, his beak is smooth and solid, his stool is well formed and his eyes are clear and glowing.

Puppy Training

 by: Gareth Hoyle

Is puppy training absolutely necessary?

As anyone who owns a dog will know, if you train a dog early enough it will save you time and money in the long run, not to mention it adding a few years to your life by avoiding unnecessary stress. A dog can be almost as time consuming as having a child. Puppy training is a must for anyone, unless you want to be chasing your dog down the road or changing your carpets on a yearly basis, you won't think twice about it. You and your dog will benefit from puppy training and the household in general will be a lot better off.

Can't I just do the puppy training myself?

Many people make the mistake of thinking they can do the puppy training themselves. It is not impossible of course, however most people would benefit from taking the dog to the professionals for the puppy training. It isn't just the dog that needs training; it is also the dog owner. The professionals know exactly what they are doing and have seen every scenario there is. Like humans, each dog is an individual, and the dog trainers can mould each training session to each dogs needs.

Where is the best place to go for puppy training?

Of course there are lots of excellent places to go for puppy training. It would be advisable that wherever you go, the puppy training firm belongs to the Association of pet Dog Trainers. There is one company that stands out amongst the others as a first class place to go to get your dog trained. The name of the firm I am referring to is www.ck9training.co.uk. They are very professional and will be sure to make any naughty little dog into a well behaved creature.

Bringing a new puppy into your home?

Puppies will grow up very quickly. Know how to train them right and they will become a good natured and well-mannered adult dog.

Before You Search For A Puppy

Before you get a new puppy, make sure you know exactly what kind of puppy to look for and how to raise and train him.

Deciding Which Type of Puppy

The breed, type, size, activity level, hair color, hair length, and gender of your prospective puppy are personal choices and best left entirely up to you and your family. You will probably have read lots of well-meaning advice from pet professionals that advise you, for example, not to get certain breeds if you have children, not to get large dogs if you live in an apartment, and not to get active dogs in the city. In reality, all breeds and types of dogs can be wonderful or problematic with children. It very much depends on whether or not the puppy was trained how to act around children and the children were taught how to act around the puppy. Because of their lower activity levels, large dogs adapt more quickly to apartment living than little dogs. Big dogs just take up more space. And active dogs can live in cities just as active people live in cities. In fact, city dogs tend to be walked and exercised more than suburban dogs. In the long run, it will be you who will be living with your puppy and teaching it to adjust to your lifestyle and living arrangement.

Selecting Your Individual Puppy

It is vital however, in your puppy search that you know how to evaluate whether your prospective puppy is physically and mentally healthy. Research your prospective puppy's lineage to confirm that his grandparents and great-grandparents all lived to a ripe old age, and to check how many of his doggy family suffered from breed-specific problems. Long life is the best indicator of overall physical and behavioral health and the best predictor that your puppy will have a long life expectancy. Research well and most of all, please take your decision to get a puppy seriously. Each year, several million dogs are abandoned, given to shelters and euthanized, almost entirely because easily preventable and utterly predictable puppy problems were allowed to develop into much more difficult to resolve adult behavior, training and temperament problems. Train your new puppy and you will have a well behaved, loveable, forever family member!

Dog Disease Symptoms,Can It Be Lyme’s?

 by: P mills

One of the most frustrating diseases that your dog is at risk for is lyme’s disease. It is caused when your dog is bitten by a tick that is a carrier. Most often, it is in the spring, summer, and early fall that you have to be aware of these nasty creatures. However, the most important thing you can do is understand the lyme’s disease symptoms in dogs, so you can help your dog as quickly as possible.

Generally, the main lyme’s disease symptoms in dogs are fever, loss of their appetite, dehydration, fatigue, and, possibly, swollen lymph nodes. Should you see any of the signs in your dog, you should immediately check their body for any ticks, as these symptoms can start within forty-eight hours after being bitten by a tick. If one is discovered, you will need to take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.

Should your dog’s symptoms go ignored, your dog could become very ill. In many cases, left untreated, it could lead to kidney failure and death. In other cases, a serious infection could set in. The fact is that lyme’s disease is just as serious for a dog as it is for a human.

The best way to prevent this from happening is to try and prevent ticks from getting on your dog. Keeping your grass cut short is good, but it will not stop your dog from wandering to other areas. Therefore, they need to be on tick prevention medications.

Every pet owner should be aware of the lyme’s disease symptoms in dogs. Should you find a tick on your dog, remove it and save it in a small container. If your dog starts to show signs of the disease, you can then bring the tick to the vet, as well. They will be able to tell whether it is a tick that could be a carrier or not and will be able to get your dog the treatment it needs quickly.

You and Your Dog’s Weight

 by: Porch Potty

Weight problems are not uncommon in our canine companions, and dog owners usually find it difficult to keep their overweight pets in shape. Modern feeding methods can sometimes add extra weight, as well as the many misconceptions owners have about how much and how often they should feed their dogs.

First, you have to consider how much food your pet actually requires. To fully comprehend our canine friends’ needs, we have to look at how wild dogs survive and what they eat.

In the wild, dogs live on rabbits, rodents, berries, and by scavenging. They only eat once a day on average, sometimes two to three days between meals. Domestic dogs’ systems are built on this same pattern of eating.

If we feed our dogs every day, they will store fat for lean times. However, if there is no lean time, they will only get fatter and fatter. Hence, feeding them two to three times a day will lead to obesity.

An adult dog needs only one average size meal per day, and ideally should completely abstain from food one day per week to help burn excess fat. Canines should not be given sweets as these will only increase their risk of obesity.

Grown dogs should not be given cow’s milk, as it is far too rich and can cause gastric issues. However, if you would still like to give your dog some milk, go for the special brands of dog milk, which can be bought at supermarkets. If your pet is overweight, be aware of how much you give him.

Several folks believe that desexing causes obesity in dogs. This is not completely true, since it is only the animal’s interest in food that increases after desexing. Owners of desexed canines should keep their pets’ food intake the same as before. Instead, you can offer raw bones, which will satisfy even the hungriest dog without adding any fat.

Various brands of diet dog food, which can help your pooch lose weight, are also available. Bear in mind that dogs that are the right weight tend to live longer and have a more active and enjoyable life.

Learn how to Put an end to The Causes of Aggressive Behavior in Dogs

 by: Gary Diaz

 

Dog aggression can begin as young as about six weeks of age, a crucial age when a puppy should be socialized to many other dogs and supplied the necessary training that keeps them from biting on other people. This phase of socialization will last till the puppy turns fourteen weeks of age and can increase further beyond that.

This indicates a number of things. First, do not take a pup outside of its litter prior to 8 weeks of age. Never use severe discipline with the new puppy in between 8 and 10 weeks and be sure the puppy is very softly dealt with in that time frame. Hitting, yelling and other hard punitive measures at a young age can easily breed aggressive behavior within dogs as time passes.

Your pet will need to have been properly socialized together with people and also other dogs as soon as your dog got to fourteen weeks to stop any future aggression problems.

Actual aggression can be brought about from several factors. Inheritance along with genes are certainly reasons - some breeds can certainly be far more aggressive than the others - however it's in no way a hard fast rule. Additionally, dogs which have never been neutered or spayed tend to be at risk from aggressive behaviors.

By far, however, the key factor in creating aggressive tendencies in dogs is environment. A dog that has terrible living conditions, harsh owners, zero socializing, or that's terrified or assaulted by a different dog is far more likely to be aggressive as it ages.

Aggression can build from the need to create a pack pecking order. Biting, posturing, along with other aggressive tendencies in many cases are the effect of a dog testing to get dominance. You will need to create dominance at a young age and maintain that role throughout the dog's adolescence to ensure it won't get a chance to take control over the family unit.

Curtailing and Managing Aggressive Behavior in Pet dogs

When your pet dog exhibits aggressive behavior after 14 months old, when it has hit sexual maturity, particularly after it has been neutered altered, make sure you address the case right away. First, ensure you established yourself as the pack leader. Don't reward the dog for aggressive behavior, even if it is fearful (particularly in this case).

Train your pet to respond to your instructions, control feeding and walking time, and make certain the dog has got a strong alpha dog inside your home. When you defer towards dog or allow it to take liberties at home, it is going to present stronger aggression toward others.

In case your pet dog is defensive-aggressive, it's possibly that they strike out at a person in fear. These dogs might possibly not have been adequately socialized. Keep them faraway from young children (which they may see as direct threats) and attend a dog training program or behaviorist who can gradually adapt your pet to a social atmosphere.

Aggressive behavior in your dog has become a concern that a great many puppy owners have, but it could in fact be managed, even as the dog gets older. If your aggression ever advances to violence, consider employing a skilled professional to intercede before somebody gets harmed and your pet dog will be held accountable.

Teaching Parrots to Talk

In the wild, many types of birds learn to vocalize by repeating the sounds they hear around them. A young bird raised among its own kind will learn, of course, to make the same sounds and songs as its family and friends. Some species of birds are such natural mimics that they will repeat many other sounds from their environment, and birdsongs of other species. Mynah birds and Mockingbirds are known to do this. Parrots, in particular, are known for their ability to replicate a very specific type of sound in their environment: human speech.
People are often surprised to learn that many of the smaller and more common parrots, such as budgerigars and cockatiels, can learn to talk. In fact, some well-trained budgies are excellent speakers. However, not all birds with the ability to speak will speak, and some species are easier to teach than others. In addition, not all species speak the same way: Macaws are said to have harsh, rough voices, while Cockatoos have very sweet voices but a limited vocabulary.
The uncontested champion of speaking parrots is the African Grey. Although they can be slow to mature (taking up to a year to begin speaking), they will continue to learn throughout their lives and can easily develop vocabularies of 100-300 words. Unfortunately, the incredible intelligence of the African Grey can also make it a very demanding pet: if not rigorously socialized for several hours a day, Greys will often resort to unpleasant and sometimes self-mutilating habits (such as feather plucking) to alleviate boredom.
Although all parrots are social creatures that need daily company and attention, some species are less needy than others. Various types of yellow-headed Amazons are known to be excellent mimics and can learn to speak quite well. Unlike with Grays, however, Amazons may have a “window of opportunity” (before they are one and a half years old) during which they are more likely to pick up human speech, and after which they are less likely to learn new words and phrases. In the wild, they would learn the appropriate calls and songs for their species during this time, and not need to modify them as they aged.
Among all species, there is the chance that a particular individual may simply never become a speaker. The only guarantee of owning a talking parrot is to buy one that already talks, although many owners prefer to buy a very young bird and train him from infancy. Training a bird while it is still being hand-fed ensures a strong bond with people and primes him to learn human language as he matures. Friendly, noisy baby birds are likely to make the best talkers. Shy or fearful birds are less likely to bond with people and less likely to learn to speak. In many species, males are the better talkers, although sexing very young birds may need to be done with a blood sample.
Parrots should be kept in a social environment with plenty of people talking, like a living room or kitchen. Keeping them away from other parrots might encourage them to learn human words rather than “bird talk”- but this may be less practical (and perhaps less kind) in a multi-parrot household. Plenty of word repetition will help the bird learn, especially in association with discrete objects (toys or treats) or activities (uncovering the cage in the morning). Parrots are naturally noisiest in the morning and evening, and these are excellent times to train. In some cases, talking quietly to the birds during these times may help quiet them, as well – they are less likely to squawk if they are listening to you!
Avoid trying to teach the bird more than one word or phrase at a time – consider making a list and working through it as they learn. They are likely to have their own favourite words: those that are easiest to say or elicit the best reaction from bystanders. Profanity can be very tempting for birds to repeat since it is often used with passion by humans, and usually gets a reaction from the audience. Ignoring a problematic word or phrase your bird has picked up is more likely to discourage its use than shouting or punishing them.
The first words or phrases produced by a parrot are usually incoherent mumbles. Consonants are difficult for them to reproduce, and careful, clear repetition on the trainer’s part will help them learn to enunciate. Parrots are more likely to listen to words said with enthusiasm, or in a higher pitch. Training sessions should last only 15-20 minutes to maximize interest and keep the bird’s attention – automated recordings should also be kept to short intervals. Parrots learn best from direct attention and this also facilitates rewarding their efforts – rewards should be frequent and generous.
If you choose to train a baby bird, keep in mind that it may take many months before the first mumbled phrases are produced. In the meantime, keep chatting and repeating phrases to him as you go about your routine, as you give him treats, or when you play with him. When he finally decides to speak up, you may be amazed at how well he has been listening!

Should I Clip My Bird’s Wings

Are you a new bird owner? Perhaps you are unsure about what kind of regular care your bird will need. Of course you need to feed and love it, but did you know that many bird owners choose to have their bird’s wings clipped? Wing clipping is one of the most controversial topics in pet bird ownership. In this article, we will discuss how wing clipping is done and what information you need to know before making this decision.
Although the thought of clipping a pet bird’s wings is horrendous to some bird owners, clipping is a very common procedure done to pet birds. It is done to prevent the bird from flying away and from flying into harmful household objects like windows and ceiling fans.  The idea behind wing clipping is to cut the “primary feathers”. Primary feathers are the long feathers that are closer to the wing tip. These feathers are very important for the bird’s ability to fly and to steer while flying. Some people will clip (cut) only one wing. When this is done, it is believed that the bird will not be able to fly, but will instead float down to the ground in a spiral. The other option is to clip both wings. People who prefer to clip only one wing believe that if both wings are clipped, the bird may end up crashing to the ground if it attempts to fly. This is very often not the case; in fact many veterinarians may argue that trimming only one wing sets the bird off balance and actually increases the risk of injury.
Most veterinarians will choose to cut the primary feathers closest to the end of the wing. There are different clipping techniques that may or may not leave the last two feathers on the wing to make the clip more pleasing to the eye. Either way, the feathers are usually cut about a half to one centimeter from the base. Another thing to keep in mind is that the feathers should always be cut in a way that protects the “blood feathers”.
Blood feathers are the immature growing feathers, which have a good blood supply running up the center of them. These feathers are delicate, and damage to a blood feather is an emergency. If your bird breaks a blood feather and is bleeding from its wing, it will need to see a veterinarian immediately. It is possible for a bird to bleed out and die from a broken blood feather.
The number of primary feathers that need to be clipped depends on the size of the bird. The lighter the bird, the more the primary feathers need to be clipped. You have to be careful because some very light birds may actually still manage to fly even with their primary feathers cut.
How old should your bird be when you start clipping its wings? Most people choose to wait until their bird is mature before clipping the wings. Allowing a young bird to fly will help build up its muscles. They will also learn to land properly and safely, which will be important if you decide to clip their wings.
How long will a clipping last? This depends on your bird. Remember that feathers naturally fall out, so your bird will eventually lose those clipped feathers, and new, full feathers will grow in their place. It can take anywhere from weeks to months for your bird to need another wing trim. It is highly recommended that you take your bird to the veterinarian to have its wings clipped in a manner that is safe and designed for your bird’s needs.
Keep in mind that many people choose not to clip their bird’s wings. They may have different reasons, such as the thought that we are taking away one of a bird’s most natural behaviors. Other owners may have their bird in a setting which will not allow it to escape.
Wing clipping is a very personal decision. You need to take into account your own needs, your bird’s needs, and your veterinarian’s opinion. It may take some trial and error to figure out what works with your bird. Always keep in mind that clipping your bird’s wings cannot be a substitute for proper observance and care; a bird with clipped wings can still escape!

Proventricular Dilation Disease – PDD in Birds

Let’s say that lately you’ve been noticing that your bird isn’t feeling well. It’s lethargic, dull, and has ruffled feathers. Then you start noticing that it’s not getting better. In fact you’ve realized that even though it’s eating more, it is still losing weight. Maybe its poop smells, perhaps it has begun to vomit and maybe there’s undigested food in its poop. A bird that is not feeling well looks lethargic and dull. There could be plenty of reasons why a bird is not feeling well. It could be eating the wrong food, have parasites or an infection, or it could be afflicted with one of many different problems. It could have Proventricular Dilation Disease.
Proventricular Dilation Disease (PDD) is a disease that can affect either the digestive system or the neurological system. Before explaining PDD, we will give a short summary of the unique digestive system of birds, because in this disease it is common to have the whole digestive tract affected. Food goes in through the beak, where it is shelled and broken down into smaller pieces. Next it hits the crop, which is a sac in the neck that is used to store and soften food. Then the food moves onto the proventriculus (‘pro’ means before, so it’s the sac before the ventriculus). In the proventriculus the food is stored and it starts being digested. After the proventriculus, the food enters the ventriculus. The ventricles is a big grinding sac. It functions like our molars, to grind food, but it also functions like our stomach, to digest food. From there the food enters the intestines for nutrient absorption.
As mentioned before, PDD can affect the digestive system or the neurological system. Sometimes it affects both. The reason that it can affect both systems is because it targets neurons. Most of the time it only affects the neurons of the digestive system, which results in the digestive tract losing ‘tone’ and dilating. When the digestive tract dilates it cannot perform its function of breaking down food and absorbing nutrients properly. This why birds with PDD often lose weight, even if they are eating properly. Less commonly, PDD can affect the neurological system instead of the digestive system. These birds can have a variety of signs, but generally will have awkward and uncoordinated movements.
It may seem that PDD is a complicated disease. PDD can have different levels of severity. Some birds will die quickly from PDD. But PDD is like an iceberg; for the number of PDD-affected birds that are seen, there are many birds that have PDD but never show it. Some birds can have PDD but will show no signs and will not be harmed by the disease. These birds pose a threat to other birds because they can pass PDD on to healthy birds.
PDD is very infectious and is found worldwide. It is most commonly seen in Cockatoos, African Grays, and Macaws. It is old enough to be well-known, but it is also still fairly new; PDD has only been recognized for around 50 years. Because it is still fairly new, it is still not completely understood. Research suggests that PDD is probably caused by a virus and is spread through contamination with feces. There is no set treatment for PDD, although there are a few experimental drugs being used that do a good job of controlling the disease in birds that are not severely affected by the disease.
So why should you care about PDD? You should care because there is no cure for it yet. You should care because your bird can get it from a seemingly healthy bird, that has PDD but doesn’t show the signs. You need to be aware of the fact that PDD is fairly common. There is no need to panic about PDD, but every bird owner should be aware that it is out there, and that putting multiple birds together increases the risk of transmitting PDD.
How can you help protect your bird? The best thing that you can do for a sick bird, in any situation, is to take it to the veterinarian right away. The sooner you detect a problem, the more you can do to stop it. PDD is a disease that can affect the digestive or neurological systems of your bird. It may never cause any problems in some birds, while causing fatal problems in other birds. It is highly infectious so PDD is a disease that you should be aware of.

Pet Budgies

Budgerigars or Budgies for short, are one of the most popular pet birds in North America, and it isn’t hard to see why. These friendly birds are extremely intelligent, and can even be taught to speak. They are also relatively small, inexpensive, and easy to care for, making them the perfect option for a first-time bird owner. They are also a great pet for children. Best of all, with proper care, there companions can live out long lives of up to fifteen years!
If you are thinking of bringing a budgie (or two) into your household, the first thing you’ll need to get is the perfect cage. This is perhaps one of the most important considerations, as this will be your pet’s home and where it spends most of its time. Budgies are extremely active and social, and need plenty of space to flap about and climb around. For this reason, the minimum size cage recommended has a width of 45cm, and a height and depth of 40cm. and bigger than this is even better. It is also important to ensure that the bars of your bird’s cage are not spaced more than half an inch apart. A good cage should have at least a few different wooden perches for your budgie to stand on. Of course, your cage should be equipped with cups for your pet’s food and water. You should plan to keep the cage in an area free from draughts and direct sunlight.
Proper nutrition for you budgie will primarily consist of a high quality seed mix which can be purchased at most pet stores. In addition, many birds enjoy a snack of fresh fruit or vegetables once in a while, which could include a slice of apple or carrots. As with any pet, providing a constant supply of fresh water is important. Make sure that this food and water is placed in an area that is less likely to be contaminated with feathers or droppings. Dishes that latch onto the side of the cage are usually preferred. Your budgie will also need a cuttle bone and mineral block (items which are readily available at pet stores) which provide essential nutrients. While many pet store employees are very knowledgeable, your veterinarian is probably the best person to ask if you have any specific nutrition questions.
On top of these basic requirements, it is a good idea to have various toys available for your budgie to entertain itself with. A simple swing, bell, or ring, can provide your pet with the stimulation it needs to maintain its psychological and emotional health and promote its development.
Once you have the above items prepared, and you are ready to purchase and bring home your new pet, there are a few more things you’ll have to consider. For one, you must decide upon how many birds you’d like get. While a pair of budgies will bond closely and keep each other company, a single budgie usually bonds more closely with its owner, and is more easily trained to speak and become hand-tamed. This decision should therefore be based on how much time you are willing to devote to socializing your bird. If you feel you will not be able to provide the kind of attention a lone budgie requires, a pair might be the better choice.
Whether you bring home one or two budgies, the first trip home will be a stressful one from the bird’s point of view. To make it feel safe and comfortable, you should give your pet time to explore its new cage on its own, and avoid any sudden or loud noises as best you can. As your budgie begins to adjust, you can start to approach the cage more often and speak to it in a soft and gentle voice. With time, your new pet will come to recognize you. Some pet stores will sell birds that are already hand-trained. In this case, you can get your budgie to stand on your finger by approaching it slowly, gently pressing on its chest, and saying ‘up’. If your bird is not yet trained, you will have to work on getting it used to your hand first, and then begin the training process.
Once you get past this initial bit of preparation and training, you can look forward to many years of low maintenance companionship from your budgie. A bit of daily attention and a weekly cage cleaning is pretty much all it will take to provide your budgie with a long and happy life. Whether you decide to carry your bird around on your finger, teach it to speak, or simply enjoy watching it hop and flutter about, your budgie will undoubtedly be a wonderful addition to your household, and your family.

Recessive Red Pigeon

 

 

by Frank Mosca

Red pigment is red pigment -- Doc Hollander has thunked me over the head about that often enough. Ignoring the bronzes, there are at least two main inheritance pathways for red pigment in pigeons. One is a sex-linked dominant mutation -- Ash-red. This is the common red of the homing pigeon. You can read about it in the Ash-red article already on line. In this article, we discuss the other red -- recessive red. Recessive red is neither sex-linked nor dominant. Instead, it is a recessive autosomal mutation. That means that both cock and hen have to carry two copies of it for it to show itself and that the mutation is carried on chromosomes other than the sex-chromosomes. Recessive red is also epistatic to many all patterns and many other mutations. Epistatis is easy to understand. It's just a term which mean that the particular mutation under discussion can hide other mutations which we would normally expect to see. It differs from dominance in that it is not on the same chromosome as the mutation it hides. For example: checker (chequer) is dominant to barless. Both mutations are on the same chromosome and are alleles, alternatives to each other. A bird carrying a gene for checker and one for barless will be seen as a checker. However, if this same bird also carries two genes for recessive red, it will be seen as a solid brick red colored pigeon. In like manner, if a bird beside it - let's say one which carries brown, Spread, Checker and Indigo also carries two genes for recessive red, we'll see the same thing: a brick red pigeon.
A recessive red pigeon can quite literally be almost anything under its coat of recessive red. It's like putting three men in red sweaters -- one may have on a black shirt, one no shirt, one a red shirt, but we can't tell because all we see is the sweater. Similarly, we can have four pigeons in front of us, all recessive red, all appearing the same. That is, they have similar phenotypes. Yet, all may be very different genetically. Recessive red doesn't have it all its own way though. There are some mutations which in turn are epistatic to it - recessive white, e.g. A solid white pigeon may be recessive red under that white and we can't tell. Other mutations interact with recessive red to produce something different enough to be distinquish visually. Almond with recessive red produces a lighter colored pigeon with darkened spots throughout. English Shortface Tumbler breeders call such birds DeRoys and the name has been taken into the terminology of many breeds now. Recessive red mottles seem to be the result of homozygous recessive red interacting with some bronze (Ken Davis is working on this hypothesis at the moment); recessive red with dominant opal gives a somewhat attractive pinkish color. Reduced recessive red also produces a somewhat pinkish bird. Though in both these cases, the "pinkish" term leaves much to the imagination especially for those who hope they're going to see something like a flamingo. Recessive red with recessive opal - I have no idea. I've never seen such a bird. Dilute with recessive red give us recessive yellow, and so on.
If you have one recessive red bird and wish to have more like it, simply mate the bird. Take any of its young of the opposite sex and mate it back to the recessive red parent and you should get about 50% recessive red in both sexes. You can also intermate the siblings and get about the same. Now comes the problem. If you're trying for show quality recessive reds, it's not an easy task. Recessive red doesn't usually do a great job covering the blue of the tail and underbody when it's all alone. Most show quality recessive red birds are combinations of bronze, reds, Indigos and any other reddening factors to make each feather of the bird appear a deep chestnut color from beak to tail. Producing such a pigeon is by no means an easy task and it's definitely a tribute to any breeder who can raise one.

Large Parrots

If you’re a bird enthusiast who has done research into owning a parrot, you may have decided that you’d like to get a large parrot. It could be for the talking ability, the bonding and interaction, or the shear beauty of larger birds. If you are willing to put the same amount (or more) of time in as is required to train and keep a dog, perhaps a larger parrot is the right bird for you!
The majority of bird owners choose smaller birds, such as songbirds like the finch and canary. Budgies and cockatiels are also very popular birds. Conures and Quakers fulfil the need of some owners for a more interactive and intelligent bird. However, the following four larger parrots supply affection and interaction with an enthusiasm that rivals pets like dogs and horses.
Amazons are the smallest of the four parrots described here, measuring about one foot from head to tail. As with the rest, they are loud and very outgoing. Amazons talk very well, in a clear voice. They come in many colors and personalities, guaranteeing that no two amazons are alike! They are not shy birds and tend to make friends easily. They are extremely demanding and strong-willed, but less so than the other three large parrots. As with all large parrots, you should do extensive research before deciding to buy one, and you should be dedicated to training them and learning their body language.
African greys are the best talkers of the parrot world. This is the major reason that most owners decide to raise and train an African grey; they can mimic incredibly clearly and speak with a vocabulary of over 100 words! Unlike most other birds, they are always grey. They are intelligent and friendly and are very sensitive to people and their surroundings. Like all large parrots, they need daily time out of their cage. Their personalities are much like that of the cockatoo.
Cockatoos are beautiful white parrots with a lovely crest of feathers. They can sometimes also have yellow or orange coloring with white. Cockatoos are like small children. They are adorable and charming, and yet at the same time are demanding and manipulative. Along with African grays, they seem to be the birds most prone to destructive feather-plucking in response to frustration or boredom. These birds need to be continuously occupied. A cockatoo’s ability to talk is like that of a smaller bird, such as a conure. With these birds, allergies are also a big consideration. Although all birds can be allergenic, cockatoos have what is called ‘feather dust’, which is an allergenic powder commonly released from the feathers of cockatoos.
Macaws are challenging pets. These birds are what the average person pictures when they think of the word ‘parrot’. They are very colorful and beautiful. But there are reasons that this large parrot is less commonly owned than the other three. Standing about two and a half feet, on average, the shear size of the bird is intimidating. There is a very big personality to go with that size. Macaws are very dominating, and can easily boss a human around. They are very playful and intelligent, and make incredible companions if properly socialized and trained.
All rewarding pets generally come with lots of challenges. This applies to parrots very well. These large birds become affectionate companions for bird lovers who are willing to take the time and effort to properly train them. There are a few common and important challenges to take into consideration when you own a large parrot. These parrots are very loud, and normal parrot behavior includes squawking at sunset and sunrise. In the wild, this time of day is when the parrots communicate with each other. Just as puppies will chew your shoes or electronics, there are some behaviors that we must learn to accept in birds. In this example of normal bird behavior, daily squawking can be modified in various ways, but will likely not be stopped entirely.
It is imperative that you properly socialize your parrot. This will ensure that they grow up to be interactive with you and will also be independent while you’re away at work. In addition, they need to be taught to accept you as the boss and taught not to bite. Socialization, at the minimum, involves taking your bird out of the cage for 1-2 hours a day and interacting with it in a play area such as an intriguing stand or perhaps an entire room dedicated to the bird.
That leads us to the major concern of large bird owners. These birds become easily bored. Part of that boredom can be solved with proper socialization, which makes them comfortable on their own. You also need to supply your parrot with many toys, bark, areas to bath, and an interesting diet. There are many ways you can keep your bird happy, from getting it to forage for food to turning on the TV.
Large parrots are challenging and rewarding pets. If you are familiar with birds, and are willing to put in the effort, this may be the pet for you! All you need to do now is figure out which bird best suits your interests. From the talkative African grey to the kingly macaw, large parrots are among the most gratifying and affectionate pets we can own.

Parrot Pellets

Ninety-five percent of all pet birds are from the parrot family; people easily fall in love with these rewarding pets. They make very intelligent and affectionate companions. Unfortunately, there is much more general knowledge about taking care of cats and dogs than there is for parrots. That is actually puzzling, considering exotic pets like birds, ferrets, and snakes actually have more complicated needs than your average cat or dog.
Many parrots live out their entire lives on birdseed. As we should probably understand from our own nutrition, just because the food we eat does not kill us, does not mean that it’s actually good for us. There are many reasons to put your parrot onto a pellet diet. In fact, the same two reasons that human doctors advocate healthy eating for us applies to parrots – good food helps them live longer with fewer health problems. Seeds are high in fat. In fact, the three most popular seed types are called “oilseeds” because of the extreme amount of fat that they contain. Providing a diet of mixed seeds will not help, because parrots will pick out their favorite seeds (usually the high fat seeds). Also, the nutrition label on the bag is not an accurate assessment of fat, protein, or fiber content because the birds do not eat the seed husk (shell). Therefore, your parrot may not be getting the proper nutrition balance that you thought you were feeding it.
Because parrots dehusk seeds, the nutrition label actually overestimates the amount of fiber it is consuming, and also underestimates the amount of fat and protein. However, even though seeds are high in protein, the high fat content allows parrots to eat a smaller amount of seed. The parrot will then not eat enough seed to get its daily needed protein. Protein is essential for proper feathers and maintenance of internal organs.
The excess fat leads to obesity, while the decreased fibre, protein, and vitamin consumption leads to malnutrition. It is possible to provide a balanced natural diet, consisting of fruit, vegetables, and seeds. Keep in mind the large amount of research you will have to do in order to prepare the correct balanced natural diet. There is also preparation and proper storage involved (fruits and vegetables go bad quickly), along with the mess that your parrot will inevitably make while eating. Feeding a natural diet can be very successful, but it is also somewhat more difficult than feeding a prepared diet. This is why feeding your parrott pellets is an excellent choice.
Vitamins and minerals are essential components in any diet, and the requirements vary between species. For example, birds do not require vitamin C (only humans, primates, and guinea pigs do). One essential mineral is calcium. Theoretically, 50% of pet parrots are female, and female birds are not usually spayed. This means it is possible for your female parrot, just like a chicken, to lay unfertilized eggs. When a female parrot consumes a diet low in calcium, the shells on her eggs do not form properly. She will be unable to lay these eggs due to weak, thin shells, and will become ‘egg-bound’. Egg-binding is when un-laid eggs build up within the parrot’s body. After a while, the parrot becomes unable to defecate. Also, an egg might break within the bird and the shell fragments can cut into her intestines and body wall.
There are other bonuses to feeding your parrot pellets. Medication is easily administered with pellets, without the fear that it will not be consumed when seeds are dehusked or preferentially eaten. Feeding pellets should always be done at an early age, because parrots tend to be set in their ways about their eating habits. Converting an older parrot over to pellets from seeds may be difficult, but if done correctly it is possible to convert your bird over a couple of months.
The advantages of pellets certainly indicate that pellets are the right way to feed a balanced diet to your parrot. The joys of having a parrot should not be complicated by health problems due to diet. There are some things that we can neither predict nor prevent with our pets, but diet is certainly not one of them. Understanding what your parrot needs will help it live a longer, happier life. For further information on parrots, visit the World Parrot Trust online, or contact your local exotics veterinarian.

Helping a Wild Bird

Beth McMaster of Wild bird Recovery in Middlesex offers these guidelines for what to do with a wild bird that appears to need help:
To catch and pick up an injured bird, throw a pillowcase or towel over it and gently scoop it up with the towel or pillowcase over its head and around its body. Place the bird in a box and pull the towel or pillowcase off the bird to keep it from overheating.
If a baby bird that does not yet have its feathers is found outside its nest and is alert, warm and begging for food, return it to its nest. Contrary to popular belief, parent birds will not reject or abandon babies if they are picked up by a human and returned to the nest. Birds do not have a very developed sense of smell.
If a baby bird that does not yet have its feathers is unresponsive, appears to be injured or was caught by a cat, call a veterinarian or a licensed wildlife rehabilitation center immediately. Place the bird in a small, cardboard box lined with unscented facial tissue and place the box on a heating pad set on low. Do not give food or water.
Baby birds that have their feathers and are hopping on the ground with adult birds nearby have “fledged,” or are learning to fly. If the baby bird is alert, keep cats, dogs and people away for a few days. If the adult bird is gone for more than a few hours, call a veterinarian or a licensed wildlife rehabilitation center.
If a baby bird that has its feathers is too young to hop and appears uninjured, place it back in the nest.
If an adult bird can be caught, it is injured and needs help. Place the bird in a small cardboard box lined with paper towels and put it in a quiet dark place. Call a veterinarian or a licensed wildlife rehabilitation center immediately.
Any bird caught by a cat needs immediate help from a veterinarian or a licensed wildlife rehabilitator. Cats carry bacteria in their mouths that are deadly to birds.

Feather Plucking In Birds

What is feather-plucking? Feather-plucking, also known as feather-picking, is when a bird damages or removes its feathers. It is usually seen in captive birds, most commonly in African Greys and Cockatoos. Most often the bird plucks at its chest, but can also pick at the inside of its wings and legs. These are the easiest places for it to reach. The plucking can be mild giving the feathers a ‘ruffled’, damaged appearance. The plucking can also be severe, going as far as damaging the skin and causing pain. Most birds fall between these two extremes, and will pluck themselves bald without picking at or damaging the skin.
Feather-plucking is not the same as molting. Molting is a normal lifelong bodily function, just like shedding is in dogs and cats. When the feathers get old, they fall out, just like our hair. Molting is the release of feathers, while feather-plucking is the removal of feathers by the bird. It is important not to mistake feather-plucking for molting because you want to correct feather-plucking as soon as possible. That way you can discover the cause of the plucking, and stop the behavior before it becomes a habit.
There is no ‘one cause’ for feather-plucking. Feather-plucking behavior itself is not a disease; it is a behavior caused by a main problem. The challenge is figuring out what that main problem is. The cause is usually either medical or behavioral. The first thing to do with a bird that is feather-plucking is to rule out medical problems. There are many skin and metabolic problems that can cause a bird to pick at its feathers. For example, many of the same causes for skin problems in humans can cause irritation to a bird’s skin. In response to that irritation, they can begin to feather-pluck. These include allergies, humidity, and inappropriate nutrition. If there are no apparent medical causes for the feather-plucking, the next step is to look at behavioral causes. Generally, birds will feather-pluck in response to stress or boredom. Like all pets, birds like to have a stable and safe place to live. They will get stressed if something new happens, like a new child, new owner, or even remodeling!
One very important fact about the two specific breeds listed above (African Grays and Cockatoos) is that they are very intelligent. Not only are they intelligent, but they also form strong bonds with their human owner. This combination often leaves us a very bored bird that pouts at home when the owner is gone. It is generally thought that in this case, feather-plucking is an exaggerated preening behavior used to distract the bird from boredom. Preening is a natural behavior, like self-grooming in cats. A bird preens its feathers to spread oils and remove dead, old feathers. Preening behavior is meant to keep the bird healthy. It’s thought that behavioral feather-plucking may be an exaggerated form of preening; it’s a natural behavior taken to the extremes to occupy the bored bird.
Hopefully it doesn’t take too long to figure out why the bird is feather-plucking. Your next step is to get rid of the cause. If it is a medical issue, treatments like anti-inflammatory may help the problem. If it is a behavioral problem, the solution is much more complex. You can put an E-collar on the bird, and although that can stop the plucking, it will still not solve the underlying problem. One of the best ways to decrease stress and boredom is to give the bird something else to distract it (other than pulling feathers!). Foraging is an excellent way to decrease boredom. Unlike dogs, which have been domesticated for thousands of years, birds have not been domesticated for long. Many birds are only the 4th or 5th generation of domesticated birds; some are still caught in the wild as babies. To properly understand bird behavior we must understand their wild behavior. In the wild, these birds spend most of their time and mental energy foraging for food.
Therefore, one of the best ways to fight boredom is to make your bird hunt for its food by hiding it. This activity will take time for you to construct, because you will have to outsmart them every day by changing the challenges constantly. Do not underestimate the intelligence of these birds. Making them work for their food is a great way to decrease stress and boredom.
There are also anti-anxiety medications available for birds. These medications have been effective in certain situations. The real solution will probably take some time to figure out. Feather-plucking is not a simple problem, and will not have a quick solution. You will probably have to try by trial-and-error to find the right solution for your bird and sometimes, the bird will not give up the habit.
The good news is that except in severe cases of skin damage, feather-plucking is not a huge health concern. It is not terribly painful for the bird. It does change the appearance of the bird though. Feather-plucking is a big issue for bird owners to think about, especially for those with the extremely intelligent parrot species. If your bird has this problem and you can’t solve it yourself then a trip to a veterinarian that specializes in birds is a great idea.

Egg Binding in Birds

 

Many sick pet birds look alike. They sit on the bottom of their cages with ruffled feathers and their heads down. This is why it’s so hard to figure out what is wrong with your bird without taking it to the veterinarian. Perhaps you also notice that your bird has a big belly. Perhaps it is a female who has a history of laying eggs but has suddenly stopped laying eggs. Your veterinarian will confirm this problem as “egg-binding”.
Egg-binding is a fairly common issue in certain female birds, such as cockatiels, budgies, and lovebirds. This is because these species tend to constantly lay eggs. If something prevents them from laying the egg, it will get stuck in the belly. When multiple eggs get stuck in the belly, this is called egg-binding.
There are different reasons for egg-binding to occur. Most of the time, this problem is related to a nutritional imbalance such as insufficient calcium. Calcium is required to create the egg shell; therefore birds laying many eggs tend to use up their calcium stores very quickly. Without enough calcium, the shell doesn’t form properly and the egg can get stuck in the belly. Egg-binding can also happen if the bird becomes dehydrated or is not getting enough calories in its diet.
This problem needs to be addressed by your veterinarian because your bird can quickly become very sick. X-rays and ultrasound are the most common ways to diagnose egg-binding. The treatment is to remove the eggs that are stuck.
There are two options that your veterinarian has to remove these eggs. Very often the vet will try the medical option first before going straight to the option that involves anesthesia. The medical option is to attempt to help the bird pass the eggs on its own. This can simply be done by warming the bird up, giving it fluids, and giving it an injection of calcium.
The next option is to put the bird under general anesthesia so it will relax and allow the veterinarian to remove the eggs. This is done very carefully to avoid damaging the uterus of the bird. Your veterinarian may choose to first draw some of the egg contents out with a needle and syringe. This way the egg will be smaller and easier to remove. With gentle pressure on the abdomen, the egg can be slowly pushed out of the bird.
Your bird will need veterinary care for at least 24 hours after this procedure. This is so dehydration and nutritional needs can be addressed. Also, there are some potential complications associated with egg-binding. One risk is that the uterus will tear or burst, due to the build-up of pressure from the eggs. Although this is often deadly, it occurs uncommonly, especially when the sick bird is promptly brought to and treated by the veterinarian.
Another potential problem after egg-binding is infection of the uterus or cloacae. This is the reason that some affected birds will be placed on antibiotics. However, the most important complication after egg-binding is the risk of it re-occurring. This is why it is very important for you to talk to your veterinarian about how to prevent egg-binding from occurring in the future.
Egg-binding is a simple problem (retention of eggs in the belly) with various causes. An improperly balanced diet is a big factor in the development of this problem. It is often difficult to find good information about the proper nutrition for pet birds, but your local veterinarian will always be able to help you. Remember, if your bird looks quiet and has ruffled feathers, it is sick. It may be egg-binding, or it may be another disease. But the sooner your get it treated, the more likely you are to have your healthy bird back quickly.

Birds for Beginners – Getting your First Pet Bird

Common Birds

Not all birds are created equal! If you’re thinking about getting a pet bird, it is important to choose a bird that fits your personality and lifestyle. That way you can fully enjoy your pet bird and be able to give it the lifestyle that it needs. Many people hesitate about getting a bird because they’ve heard stories of very demanding birds like amazons and macaws, which essentially have the same needs as children. At the same time, however, it is also important not to jump into ownership without recognizing that quite a few of the popular birds have needs that extend beyond the basics of food, water, and a clean cage.
This article is a brief introduction to a few of the smaller popular birds. Large birds like African grays, amazons, cockatoos, and macaws do not make good birds for the novice bird owner. Here we will look at the personalities and unique characteristics of seven common small birds, listed in size order, smallest to largest.
Finches and canaries require similar care. They both require a cage that is a little larger than you would think, considering their small size. This is because neither of these birds is let out of the cage to fly around, like some of the larger and more social birds are. Finches are very colourful little birds that make a great pet for someone who would like a song bird. They are hardy and inexpensive. Finches are best kept in pairs.
Canaries have personalities similar to finches. They are a little bit louder and noisier, but on that note, they are well recognized for their beautiful songs. They are small and colorful, with yellow being the most common color. Like finches, the biggest advantage to owning one of these songbirds is that it doesn’t require one-on-one care. It is perfectly able to amuse itself and does not need to build a relationship with a human.
Budgies are appropriate pets for children. They are much more interactive than finches and canaries, but require less maintenance and training than the larger birds. Budgies are colorful, sociable, outgoing, talkative, and inexpensive. Also, they are relatively not very loud. As with all pet birds, they are more social and talkative when only one bird is owned. For proper training of any type of bird, it is not recommended to have more than one, and they should be hand-raised. Pairs of birds tend to bond with each other rather than with the owner. One thing to keep in mind with female budgies is that they seem to be more prone than other birds to egg-binding (life-threatening medical condition).
Love birds are not an exception to the ‘one-bird’ rule. They are in fact very aggressive towards other birds, and are capable of killing each other and smaller birds. As pets, lovebirds are fairly outgoing but not very talkative. They are hardy birds that don’t require a very large cage.
Cockatiels are considered by some bird enthusiasts to be the ‘perfect pet bird’. This is due to their gentle nature and the ease of training them. Also, they still fall into the affordable price range. They are very colorful. Cockatiels are outgoing, but don’t talk well. Instead they communicate with a variety of whistles. At this point it should be noted that all birds should be housed in the biggest cage you can afford. Bigger birds do need bigger cages, but all birds benefit from the freedom of a large cage.
Conures are one of the most popular types of pet birds. This is because there is such a wide range of colors and personalities. Just as there are different birds for different people, there is almost always a conure that fits your needs. In general, they are very outgoing and easy talkers. They do tend to be fairly loud. As with some of the other medium-sized birds, they have more personality than the smaller birds like finches and canaries, but require less maintenance than the larger birds. Conures are easily trained to be very tame birds.
Quakers are considered a ‘big parrot in a small package’. Quakers are a common choice for people who love the personalities of large birds like macaws, but do not want to own one. They are popular pets for experienced bird owners and novice owners who are willing to put the extra effort into owning a more demanding, but equally rewarding, bird. Like larger birds, they are very outgoing, playful, and bossy. At the same time they are also smart and chatty. The Quakers’ intelligence leads them to become escape artists and pack rats. They are unique in that they build their own nests, a habit which makes them fairly messy. A pet Quaker needs lots of toys and nest material. A potential Quaker owner must keep in mind that they will attempt to dominate other house pets, and are very territorial when on or in their cage, even towards the owner.
Large birds require a lot of maintenance for their physical and emotional needs, and are not suitable for novice bird owners. Therefore, novice owners and many experienced bird owners choose to build fulfilling relationships with smaller birds. The sociability and chattiness that you want in a bird will determine which bird is right for you. You also need to take into consideration the amount of time you have to spend training and building a relationship with your pet bird. As with breeds of dogs, it is important to do proper research into the needs of your future pet bird before choosing the bird that’s right for you.

Birds as Pets

Getting Ready for a New Bird

Whether your knowledge of birds comes from Woody Woodpecker, Tweety or “Polly wanna cracker?”, they make great companions: Some will cuddle with you, others will play and, of course, many will chat. Just keep in mind that they are a serious commitment; many live as long as we do.

MUST HAVE ITEMS:

• Cage – The largest appropriately constructed model you can afford with no sharp edges (hook bill birds with curved beaks, such as conures, cockatiels and parakeets need a cage with horizontal bars, as they are climbers by nature)
• Cage papers black-and-white newspapers are great, as are brown paper bags
• Grate for the bottom of cage; can be made from 1-inch mesh or purchased at pet store
• Plastic paint scraper for cleaning cage without damaging it
• Perch, preferably several, of differing shapes and thicknesses; branches of fruit trees are ideal (cherry branches, however, are toxic to birds)
• Cleaning supplies for cage and perches
• Food and water dishes that fit the cage openings
• Food – seed mix or pellets
• Toys – just a few in the cage at one time, including tree branches, popsicle sticks, toilet paper tubes, knotted pieces of string, crumpled white paper, rawhide dog bones for chewing
• Treats – made from scratch or purchased at a pet store, including millet spray and sprouted seeds
• Specially made bird carrier for trips and vet visits, or a heavy cardboard box with a lid and holes poked in it
• Blanket for wrapping carrier in cold weather
• A highly recommended avian veterinarian
• Plant sprayer for cleaning bird or cage-door birdbath
• Calcium – in block form or as a cuttlebone

NICE TO HAVE:

• An extra, inexpensive cage to be used when cleaning the regular cage
• Books on keeping birds and on your specific breed
• Gram scale for weighing your bird to make sure it’s in good health (a tiny drop in weight could indicate serious illness)
• A fan to circulate fresh air for your bird, who needs temperate conditions
• Nightlight so the bird can find its way to its dishes in the dark
• Cage cover, especially if it gets cold in your home in the evenings
• Dustbuster or other handheld vacuum for daily freshening of cage
• Extra set of food and water dishes for when dishes are being washed
• Bellbirds often enjoy having a bell in their cage, but choose a model without a removable clapper or other small, swallow able parts
• Jungle gym – Make it yourself from dowels and boards or purchase at pet store
• T-shaped stand on wheels for moving the bird around your home
• Hair dryer with low setting for drying bird after baths
• Vitamins to be added to food only, such as wheatgrass powder