Affenpinscher Breed Information

·  

Breed Group: Toy

Weight: 7-9 lbs

Height: 9-11.5 inches

Color(s): black, gray, silver, or black and tan

Overview

The Affenpinscher originated in Germany in the 16th century. They are commonly referred to as the "monkey dog" due to their physical appearance and delightful attitude. Their strong character and sporting instinct made this breed particularly useful in destroying rats and mice. The primary function of the Affenpinscher today is that of an amiable companion.

Character

The Affenpinscher is a balanced and sturdy breed. They are a combination of charm and spunk, with a great deal of courage and boldness. They are capable of amazing dexterity and agility. They possess thinking and reasoning process, and will on occasion display sensitivity and gentleness. The Affenpinscher is often considered the "class clown".

Temperament

Affenpinschers are highly inquisitive and quick-witted. They are mischievous and playful, affectionate and amusing. They get along well with other pets they have been raised with. They are not recommended for young children as this breed has a tendency to guard and protect their food and toys. They will become aggressive and fearless toward anything or anyone they perceive as a threat. They love to entertain and expect to be entertained. The Affenpinscher enjoys being with their family.
Care The Affenpinscher requires minimal grooming. Their harsh coat must never be clipped short as this will ruin it for many years. Brushing and combing weekly is a must, plucking done when necessary. They will occasionally have stray hairs that grow in the corners of the eyes that cause irritation; they should be removed immediately. The Affenpinscher is prone to slipped stifle, open fontanel, and respiratory problems.

Coat

The Affenpinscher has a coat of dense shaggy hair, which is rough and harsh. It is 1" in length on the shoulders and body. The head, neck, chest, stomach, and legs have a longer and less harsh coat. Once they reach maturity this breed has a mane of hair at the neck area, longer hair on the head, eyebrows, and a beard. Their coat serves as protection in extreme weather conditions. They are low shedding. The coat comes in various colors such as black, gray, silver, and red.

Training

Affenpinschers may be difficult to housetrain. The crate training method is recommended. They display an authoritarian attitude, so they require firmness and consistency. They are quick to learn, but do not respond to repetition. The Affenpinscher does best with a variety of tasks so they do not become bored.

Activity

The Affenpinscher is active and energetic. Their exercise needs can be met with indoor play sessions on a regular basis. They do well as apartment or condominium dwellers provided they are taken for daily leashed walks. They also enjoy a chance to run, so a small fenced yard is ideal. The Affenpinscher tends to climb and bark so supervision is required in the outdoor setting.

Failure to Thrive

 

..eating + weight loss = sick finch
by Myra

Are your baby finches dying shortly after leaving the nest even though their parents are feeding them? If they just can't seem to gain weight and appear to getting weaker we call it Failure to Thrive. The term is actually a very general one used when the exact cause of the illness isn't known. With young finches that die in the nest it isn't easy to notice changes in their health. Many die before they leave the nest. It's in the few that survive just long enough to fledge that we usually see the problem.
These chicks are often weak, small, under weight, and inactive except for begging for food. If you hold one in your hand you will notice the breastbone is sticking out quite a bit. It's a large V shaped bone on the breast, pretty easy to feel in underweight finches. When chicks are suffering from this the cause can usually be traced directly back to the parent finches.
This condition can also occur in adult finches just as easily as it can in chicks. However when an adult finch starts getting weak and losing weight it's usually referred to as Going Light. It's not as common in adults as it is in chicks. Chicks don't have their immune systems built up, nor are they prepared to deal with parasites. Adults on the other hand tend to have a better chance of surviving and thriving once again.
There are several possible causes for this condition. They are both the same for the young and their parents. Let's go through the list shall we:

1. Bacteria – This is number one on the list because it's the most common. There are several types of bacteria can cause the symptoms, thankfully the treatment is pretty simple. Tetratex works well but it can only be given to the adult finches. They in turn give it to their chicks while feeding them. Usually the parents already had the bacteria in their systems but their immune systems were able to prevent illness. They passed the bacteria on to their chicks when feeding them and the chicks don't have a sufficient immune system to fight off the bacteria invaders. Antibiotics should always be followed with a Probiotic to reestablish the health bacteria of the digestive tract.
2. Avian Gastric Yeast – Also known as Megabacteria. It isn’t a bacteria and will not be effected by the use of antibiotics. Your vet can test for this pathogen and prescribe the correct medication. 
3. Protozoa – Now we have the second most common cause. Like the bacteria it's given to the chicks by their parents. The treatment is Ronivet-S or Ronex, given in the drinking water of the parents. They in turn give the medication to their young. Also like the bacteria it's highly possible the parents aren't showing any signs of the protozoal infection.
4. Coccidiosis - This is actually a protozoa but these protozoa are much more difficult to kill than the other types. A special medication called Cocci-Care was developed to deal specifically with these protozoa.
5. Parasites – These you can usually spot, but not always. If the parasites are worms you may see signs of them in the finches droppings or in the chicks mouths. Treat them with Worm Away. However, more common than worms is blood sucking ticks or mites. These little pests are most common in outdoor aviaries. They sneak in under the cover of night and cause a lot of harm. You won't usually see the bugs unless they have set up a home inside a finch's nest. The warm, humid and food filled nest is a haven for these bugs. When parasites are to blame this may be the only time you'll see the symptoms in both the parents and the chicks. Treat the finches, cage, and area with a misting of Avian Insect Liquidator. Finally we have air sac mitesand scaly face mites which can do equal harm to chicks and parents. For these two types of mites you need to treat the parents with Iverlux.
6. Genetic – This one is common and less mysterious than the other three I've talked about. Inbreeding can play a major roll here and we all know how much I don't encourage inbreeding. This is just one of the reason why. Sometimes inbreeding isn't at fault however it can also just be a bad combination of genes. When genetics are the cause there is nothing you can do for the chicks. They will adapt or die, death being the usual result. Quite often they simply have poorly developed organs and lack the ability to digest properly. Other times it's an inability to properly remove waste material from the body even though the finch is pooping. When genetics does play a role the entire clutch usually dies, if some do survive they tend to me small and sickly. The only thing you can do is try a new pairing with new mates.

Failure to Thrive

 

..eating + weight loss = sick finch
by Myra

Are your baby finches dying shortly after leaving the nest even though their parents are feeding them? If they just can't seem to gain weight and appear to getting weaker we call it Failure to Thrive. The term is actually a very general one used when the exact cause of the illness isn't known. With young finches that die in the nest it isn't easy to notice changes in their health. Many die before they leave the nest. It's in the few that survive just long enough to fledge that we usually see the problem.
These chicks are often weak, small, under weight, and inactive except for begging for food. If you hold one in your hand you will notice the breastbone is sticking out quite a bit. It's a large V shaped bone on the breast, pretty easy to feel in underweight finches. When chicks are suffering from this the cause can usually be traced directly back to the parent finches.
This condition can also occur in adult finches just as easily as it can in chicks. However when an adult finch starts getting weak and losing weight it's usually referred to as Going Light. It's not as common in adults as it is in chicks. Chicks don't have their immune systems built up, nor are they prepared to deal with parasites. Adults on the other hand tend to have a better chance of surviving and thriving once again.
There are several possible causes for this condition. They are both the same for the young and their parents. Let's go through the list shall we:

1. Bacteria – This is number one on the list because it's the most common. There are several types of bacteria can cause the symptoms, thankfully the treatment is pretty simple. Tetratex works well but it can only be given to the adult finches. They in turn give it to their chicks while feeding them. Usually the parents already had the bacteria in their systems but their immune systems were able to prevent illness. They passed the bacteria on to their chicks when feeding them and the chicks don't have a sufficient immune system to fight off the bacteria invaders. Antibiotics should always be followed with a Probiotic to reestablish the health bacteria of the digestive tract.
2. Avian Gastric Yeast – Also known as Megabacteria. It isn’t a bacteria and will not be effected by the use of antibiotics. Your vet can test for this pathogen and prescribe the correct medication. 
3. Protozoa – Now we have the second most common cause. Like the bacteria it's given to the chicks by their parents. The treatment is Ronivet-S or Ronex, given in the drinking water of the parents. They in turn give the medication to their young. Also like the bacteria it's highly possible the parents aren't showing any signs of the protozoal infection.
4. Coccidiosis - This is actually a protozoa but these protozoa are much more difficult to kill than the other types. A special medication called Cocci-Care was developed to deal specifically with these protozoa.
5. Parasites – These you can usually spot, but not always. If the parasites are worms you may see signs of them in the finches droppings or in the chicks mouths. Treat them with Worm Away. However, more common than worms is blood sucking ticks or mites. These little pests are most common in outdoor aviaries. They sneak in under the cover of night and cause a lot of harm. You won't usually see the bugs unless they have set up a home inside a finch's nest. The warm, humid and food filled nest is a haven for these bugs. When parasites are to blame this may be the only time you'll see the symptoms in both the parents and the chicks. Treat the finches, cage, and area with a misting of Avian Insect Liquidator. Finally we have air sac mitesand scaly face mites which can do equal harm to chicks and parents. For these two types of mites you need to treat the parents with Iverlux.
6. Genetic – This one is common and less mysterious than the other three I've talked about. Inbreeding can play a major roll here and we all know how much I don't encourage inbreeding. This is just one of the reason why. Sometimes inbreeding isn't at fault however it can also just be a bad combination of genes. When genetics are the cause there is nothing you can do for the chicks. They will adapt or die, death being the usual result. Quite often they simply have poorly developed organs and lack the ability to digest properly. Other times it's an inability to properly remove waste material from the body even though the finch is pooping. When genetics does play a role the entire clutch usually dies, if some do survive they tend to me small and sickly. The only thing you can do is try a new pairing with new mates.

Egg Binding

 

..causes, prevention, treatment
by Myra

What is it?
Egg Binding is the condition when a female can not pass an egg (either a fully developed or partially developed egg).
What causes it?
Egg binding is usually caused by a dietary deficiency (calcium and other nutrients) though other factors can also play a part in it. Diet, stress, cold, excessive egg laying, age/size are all factors which should all be considered when treating and preventing egg binding. I will go into more detail with each of these factors in the prevention section.
How will I know that my finch is Egg Bound?
An egg bound finch will have the basic sick bird look with a few modifications. Usually the female stops eating or eats only a little. She may still defecate but probably only a little will get through if any at all. Her tail may be bobbing a bit or raised as the muscular contractions are trying the push the egg out. The wings will be down slightly and she'll have an overall look of exhaustion on her. Normally she'll sit on the floor the cage as they can loose their balance while pushing the egg out but you may find an egg bound inside her nest as well.
I do have to say this, just so someone doesn't come back and tell me I wasn't laying out all the facts. A male finch will never become egg bound. This can physically only happen to females. I know it's silly and a no duh kind of fact but I needed to say it.
An egg bound female will die if the egg isn't expelled in a short about of time. Usually by the time you notice the problem she only has hours left. Always be prepared to act quickly.
How to I treat my Egg Bound hen?
Remove the female from the cage she had been in. Give her one-drop of Calcium Plus directly in the mouth. She needs to swallow it. Then place her in a small brooder, hospital cage, or just a small spare cage. Use a heating pad to warm the cage. Try to keep the temperate between 80 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a dish of water for her to drink from and to add humidity to her environment. I usually drape a small towel over a few sides of the hospital cage to help keep in the warmth and humidity.
Make sure there is food and water inside the hospital cage that is in easy reach from the floor. The female may not perch until the egg is out so everything must be accessible from the floor.
All you need to do now is wait. Once she is in the hospital cage and has had her Calcium Plus leave her alone. The added stress if seeing humans on a regular basis while she's that vulnerable won't help matters. Usually the egg will be passed within 16 hours.
After the hen has passed the egg she will look and act perfectly normal again but should rest and not allowed to breed again for awhile. I prefer to leave an egg bound hen in the hospital cage until I am sure she is finished laying her clutch. Most become egg bound on the first egg of the clutch. This means there are at least a few more eggs on the way.
Once the clutch has been laid and the female has recovered (this may take a week) you may put her back in with her mate. I will recommend that you remove the nest and not encourage their pair to nest again for several weeks. It may be wise to continue giving the pair a little Calcium Plus for the next several weeks. Dosage information for giving Calcium Plus via the water is written on the bottle.
What can I do to prevent or decrease the likelihood of Egg Binding?
I will start with the factors that can cause egg binding and tell you how to prevent each one from developing into such a life threatening problem.
Diet: A proper diet is very important and is usually at the root of problem with egg binding. Egg laying birds need a balanced diet. Seed and millet are good but there really should be more. Adding greens, fruits, hard-boiled egg, mealworms, and cuttle bone (or oyster shell) can help a lot. Please learn as much as possible about your species of finch to find the diet that best suits your birds.
Granted, not all finches will eat everything that you give them so readily. This is where commercially produced egg food comes into place. I have been feeding my picky eaters Egg Food for quite some time now. It is a wonderful product and has most everything the finch needs to remain healthy. It can be given daily or as a treat once a week.
There are vitamin and calcium supplements that you can add to the finch's food and water. It is very important to know that if you buy a calcium additive for your finches to make sure it contains Vitamin d3. Vitamin d3 is necessary for the proper absorption of calcium. If your birds live in an outdoor aviary, they can make their own d3 via a chemical reaction to sunlight. Birds living indoors don't get the full spectrum and ultraviolet light they need to produce d3 naturally.
I like to use Calcium Plus or Breeding Aid. Both are great additives for any finches. Calcium Plus is mainly a calcium additive and Breeding Aid will contain the essential vitamins and fatty acids.
Stress: Having happy and healthy birds is always the way to go. Species vary on how well they adapt to unfamiliar surroundings, and general flightiness.
The dog is barking, the kids are yelling, there are people moving around the cage all the time. How can a finch relax long enough to lay an egg with all this activity around the cage? Thankfully in the past few years I haven't seen much stress related egg binding, but when it does happen you do need to move your finches to a quieter part of the house.
Some species also do better in small flocks or colonies and others are more comfortable in single pair breeding cages or flights. A finch that is severely stressed may pluck its feathers or other birds feathers, may be more aggressive, and may not eat well.
Temperature/Dry air: Cold can be a problem in the winter months, and it is not only the cold but the over all dry air that compounds the problem. The muscles do not function and open properly when they are cold and dry. A simple heat lamp can fix this problem or just keep the temperature in your aviary room a little warmer. Adding humidity can be as simple as a festive tabletop water fountain for small groups of finches or add a humidifier to the room if you have a large flock.
Age/Size: A small bodied hen is also quite likely to become egg bound if there isn't enough room for the egg to pass safely. Note that each species of finch has its own ideal size and weight. It's best to know what is the ideal size of your bird before you attempt breeding.
Young hens may also have a problem with egg binding if they jump into breeding too quickly. They need time to mature and fully develop before they should be allowed to breed. Finches tend to grow and mature very quickly and some aviary birds may start a new family before the hens are really ready.
I don't condone breeding with young birds. I admit I have left a few juvenile Zebras in my aviary a little too long and they have bred, but the offspring were all small and just not as healthy overall as they would have been if their parents were older.
Excessive Egg Laying: Simply laying too many eggs can cause egg binding. It depletes the body of nutrients and exhausts the female. I know many people think the egg just pops out, but it doesn't. I've watched some of my females lay eggs; they do go through a short labor before the egg is expelled.
Afterwards they are hot, tired, and usually thirsty. Getting a female to stop laying eggs so it doesn't lead to egg binding can be a problem, many breeders give their finches fake or dummy eggs to sit on to end the laying. Some breeders simply remove the nest, but if even that doesn't work you will need to make sure her diet and light are excellent to keep her healthy.
Allowing the pair to rest between clutches may reduce the likelihood of egg binding. Finches may not want to rest, they may even start laying eggs before the first clutch is fully weaned but it is best to remove any new eggs as soon as you see them. If the first clutch is weaning and not using the nest much I recommend removing the nest.