Macaw, Caninde (Blue-throated) (Ara glaucogularis)

by Jim Hayward   

ORIGINAL HOMELAND:
Bolivia
NATURAL HABITAT:
Forested areas adjacent to waterways.
STATUS IN THE WILD:
Regarded as endangered and is on the DOE's Schedule One which means that breeders must obtain licences to sell their surplus stock.
STATUS IN AVICULTURE:
Rare and highly sought.
LEVEL OF KEEPER'S EXPERIENCE:
Only breeders of long experience with the commoner species of Ara should consider obtaining these macaws.
HARDINESS:
Resilient against cold as are the other large macaws, but adequate shelters should be constructed and facilities to protect against severe weather should be installed.
TYPE OF ACCOMMODATION:
If these large macaws are to be kept to be kept in ideal circumstances, a great deal of space is required; aviaries need to be built with substantial materials and be of sound construction. A large macaw can easily crush thin wire and wood can be reduced to piles of splinters and the heaviest gauge welded mesh should be used, with galvanised iron pipe or angle iron screwed or bolted together to make the framework. A walk-way around the sides of the aviary block, can be covered with a thinner gauge 1/2" x 1" mesh to prevent sparrows and other small birds from entering. Large rodents can be foiled by a 'rat skirt' of mesh or galvanised steel dug in around the boundary of the entire aviary. Shelters can be made with brick or concrete block; concrete floors should be laid in the shelters, but if used in the open flights must be constructed with a drainage system; concrete often encourages the growth of moulds and algae. An alternative to concrete floored flights on well drained land involves the removal of top soil and laying of a 6" to 1ft layer of 1/2" to 3/4" diameter pebbles or shingle.

TYPE OF DIET:

As varied as possible; as well as a mixture of large seeds and nuts, the following should be provided: grain (e.g. shot and cooked wheat), pulses (cooking is advised, if given raw some beans can be toxic and may also contain a tryptopane inhibitor which creates digestive problems), a variety of vegetables (including scalded frozen peas, cooked root crops, raw carrot and greens), tropical fruits (mango, papaya, star fruit, kiwi, etc.), cheese and small amounts of cooked lean meat or poultry, even white fish, budding willow or branches of other non toxic species, uncontaminated flowering and seeding weeds (e.g. chickweed, dandelion, sow thistle) and berries from the elder, hawthorn and rowan. Cuttlefish, grit and other suitable sources of calcium and mineral are necessary for the maintenance of the skeleton, digestion and egg production, and should be available at all times - as should clean fresh water. It is worth remembering that avocado is considered to be harmful to parrots.

SEXING:
Sexing from appearance is difficult if not impossible. Surgical sexing is generally employed to solve this problem.
SEXUAL MATURITY:
Attempts at nesting with other large macaws like these usually begin from four to five years old.
NESTING SEASON IN BRITAIN:
Attempts at nesting with other large macaws like these may occur at any time of year, from mid winter through spring summer and autumn.
TYPE OF NEST:
Aviculturists use a variety of nesting receptacles for large macaws like these including large boxes, barrels, even metal drums and dustbins - sometimes set up high and other times just laid on the floor. An initial covering for the bottom of the nest can be made of soft sieved sand and rotted wood, but pieces of wood can also be placed or fixed inside the nest for the birds to gnaw and in so doing provide extra nest litter.
USUAL NUMBER OF EGGS:
Eggs may vary from two to four, but most usually three, which are generally laid with a couple or even more days between eggs.
INCUBATION PERIOD:
From twenty-five to twenty-eight days depending on the time of year and temperature.
USUAL NUMBER OF YOUNG:
Two to three.
FLEDGING AGE:
At the age of just over three months, the young are ready to fledge the nest; they resemble their parents, apart from their slighter build, dark irides and shorter tails.
USUAL NUMBER OF CLUTCHES:
If left to breed naturally the length of the nesting/rearing cycle leaves time for only one clutch per year.
NESTING HABITS:
As with the other large macaws, breeding pairs can be fierce in defence of their nest, eggs and young. Mating can be frequent and prolonged and is carried out as the birds sit side by side - in keeping with the habits of other South American parrots. Mutual preening is part of the courtship ritual, during which the cock regurgitates food for the hen and feeds her with a pumping action.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS:
Parrots as rare as the Caninde Macaw should not be considered as pets, every available specimen should be included in a breeding programme.
NOISE FACTOR:
The raucous voices of macaws can cause disputes with close neighbours and even legal proceedings, so careful consideration must be given to this potential problem before purchasing such large parrots.

Macaw, Caninde (Blue-throated) (Ara glaucogularis)

by Jim Hayward   

ORIGINAL HOMELAND:
Bolivia
NATURAL HABITAT:
Forested areas adjacent to waterways.
STATUS IN THE WILD:
Regarded as endangered and is on the DOE's Schedule One which means that breeders must obtain licences to sell their surplus stock.
STATUS IN AVICULTURE:
Rare and highly sought.
LEVEL OF KEEPER'S EXPERIENCE:
Only breeders of long experience with the commoner species of Ara should consider obtaining these macaws.
HARDINESS:
Resilient against cold as are the other large macaws, but adequate shelters should be constructed and facilities to protect against severe weather should be installed.
TYPE OF ACCOMMODATION:
If these large macaws are to be kept to be kept in ideal circumstances, a great deal of space is required; aviaries need to be built with substantial materials and be of sound construction. A large macaw can easily crush thin wire and wood can be reduced to piles of splinters and the heaviest gauge welded mesh should be used, with galvanised iron pipe or angle iron screwed or bolted together to make the framework. A walk-way around the sides of the aviary block, can be covered with a thinner gauge 1/2" x 1" mesh to prevent sparrows and other small birds from entering. Large rodents can be foiled by a 'rat skirt' of mesh or galvanised steel dug in around the boundary of the entire aviary. Shelters can be made with brick or concrete block; concrete floors should be laid in the shelters, but if used in the open flights must be constructed with a drainage system; concrete often encourages the growth of moulds and algae. An alternative to concrete floored flights on well drained land involves the removal of top soil and laying of a 6" to 1ft layer of 1/2" to 3/4" diameter pebbles or shingle.

TYPE OF DIET:

As varied as possible; as well as a mixture of large seeds and nuts, the following should be provided: grain (e.g. shot and cooked wheat), pulses (cooking is advised, if given raw some beans can be toxic and may also contain a tryptopane inhibitor which creates digestive problems), a variety of vegetables (including scalded frozen peas, cooked root crops, raw carrot and greens), tropical fruits (mango, papaya, star fruit, kiwi, etc.), cheese and small amounts of cooked lean meat or poultry, even white fish, budding willow or branches of other non toxic species, uncontaminated flowering and seeding weeds (e.g. chickweed, dandelion, sow thistle) and berries from the elder, hawthorn and rowan. Cuttlefish, grit and other suitable sources of calcium and mineral are necessary for the maintenance of the skeleton, digestion and egg production, and should be available at all times - as should clean fresh water. It is worth remembering that avocado is considered to be harmful to parrots.

SEXING:
Sexing from appearance is difficult if not impossible. Surgical sexing is generally employed to solve this problem.
SEXUAL MATURITY:
Attempts at nesting with other large macaws like these usually begin from four to five years old.
NESTING SEASON IN BRITAIN:
Attempts at nesting with other large macaws like these may occur at any time of year, from mid winter through spring summer and autumn.
TYPE OF NEST:
Aviculturists use a variety of nesting receptacles for large macaws like these including large boxes, barrels, even metal drums and dustbins - sometimes set up high and other times just laid on the floor. An initial covering for the bottom of the nest can be made of soft sieved sand and rotted wood, but pieces of wood can also be placed or fixed inside the nest for the birds to gnaw and in so doing provide extra nest litter.
USUAL NUMBER OF EGGS:
Eggs may vary from two to four, but most usually three, which are generally laid with a couple or even more days between eggs.
INCUBATION PERIOD:
From twenty-five to twenty-eight days depending on the time of year and temperature.
USUAL NUMBER OF YOUNG:
Two to three.
FLEDGING AGE:
At the age of just over three months, the young are ready to fledge the nest; they resemble their parents, apart from their slighter build, dark irides and shorter tails.
USUAL NUMBER OF CLUTCHES:
If left to breed naturally the length of the nesting/rearing cycle leaves time for only one clutch per year.
NESTING HABITS:
As with the other large macaws, breeding pairs can be fierce in defence of their nest, eggs and young. Mating can be frequent and prolonged and is carried out as the birds sit side by side - in keeping with the habits of other South American parrots. Mutual preening is part of the courtship ritual, during which the cock regurgitates food for the hen and feeds her with a pumping action.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS:
Parrots as rare as the Caninde Macaw should not be considered as pets, every available specimen should be included in a breeding programme.
NOISE FACTOR:
The raucous voices of macaws can cause disputes with close neighbours and even legal proceedings, so careful consideration must be given to this potential problem before purchasing such large parrots.

Macaw, Caninde (Blue-throated) (Ara glaucogularis)

by Jim Hayward   

ORIGINAL HOMELAND:
Bolivia
NATURAL HABITAT:
Forested areas adjacent to waterways.
STATUS IN THE WILD:
Regarded as endangered and is on the DOE's Schedule One which means that breeders must obtain licences to sell their surplus stock.
STATUS IN AVICULTURE:
Rare and highly sought.
LEVEL OF KEEPER'S EXPERIENCE:
Only breeders of long experience with the commoner species of Ara should consider obtaining these macaws.
HARDINESS:
Resilient against cold as are the other large macaws, but adequate shelters should be constructed and facilities to protect against severe weather should be installed.
TYPE OF ACCOMMODATION:
If these large macaws are to be kept to be kept in ideal circumstances, a great deal of space is required; aviaries need to be built with substantial materials and be of sound construction. A large macaw can easily crush thin wire and wood can be reduced to piles of splinters and the heaviest gauge welded mesh should be used, with galvanised iron pipe or angle iron screwed or bolted together to make the framework. A walk-way around the sides of the aviary block, can be covered with a thinner gauge 1/2" x 1" mesh to prevent sparrows and other small birds from entering. Large rodents can be foiled by a 'rat skirt' of mesh or galvanised steel dug in around the boundary of the entire aviary. Shelters can be made with brick or concrete block; concrete floors should be laid in the shelters, but if used in the open flights must be constructed with a drainage system; concrete often encourages the growth of moulds and algae. An alternative to concrete floored flights on well drained land involves the removal of top soil and laying of a 6" to 1ft layer of 1/2" to 3/4" diameter pebbles or shingle.

TYPE OF DIET:

As varied as possible; as well as a mixture of large seeds and nuts, the following should be provided: grain (e.g. shot and cooked wheat), pulses (cooking is advised, if given raw some beans can be toxic and may also contain a tryptopane inhibitor which creates digestive problems), a variety of vegetables (including scalded frozen peas, cooked root crops, raw carrot and greens), tropical fruits (mango, papaya, star fruit, kiwi, etc.), cheese and small amounts of cooked lean meat or poultry, even white fish, budding willow or branches of other non toxic species, uncontaminated flowering and seeding weeds (e.g. chickweed, dandelion, sow thistle) and berries from the elder, hawthorn and rowan. Cuttlefish, grit and other suitable sources of calcium and mineral are necessary for the maintenance of the skeleton, digestion and egg production, and should be available at all times - as should clean fresh water. It is worth remembering that avocado is considered to be harmful to parrots.

SEXING:
Sexing from appearance is difficult if not impossible. Surgical sexing is generally employed to solve this problem.
SEXUAL MATURITY:
Attempts at nesting with other large macaws like these usually begin from four to five years old.
NESTING SEASON IN BRITAIN:
Attempts at nesting with other large macaws like these may occur at any time of year, from mid winter through spring summer and autumn.
TYPE OF NEST:
Aviculturists use a variety of nesting receptacles for large macaws like these including large boxes, barrels, even metal drums and dustbins - sometimes set up high and other times just laid on the floor. An initial covering for the bottom of the nest can be made of soft sieved sand and rotted wood, but pieces of wood can also be placed or fixed inside the nest for the birds to gnaw and in so doing provide extra nest litter.
USUAL NUMBER OF EGGS:
Eggs may vary from two to four, but most usually three, which are generally laid with a couple or even more days between eggs.
INCUBATION PERIOD:
From twenty-five to twenty-eight days depending on the time of year and temperature.
USUAL NUMBER OF YOUNG:
Two to three.
FLEDGING AGE:
At the age of just over three months, the young are ready to fledge the nest; they resemble their parents, apart from their slighter build, dark irides and shorter tails.
USUAL NUMBER OF CLUTCHES:
If left to breed naturally the length of the nesting/rearing cycle leaves time for only one clutch per year.
NESTING HABITS:
As with the other large macaws, breeding pairs can be fierce in defence of their nest, eggs and young. Mating can be frequent and prolonged and is carried out as the birds sit side by side - in keeping with the habits of other South American parrots. Mutual preening is part of the courtship ritual, during which the cock regurgitates food for the hen and feeds her with a pumping action.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS:
Parrots as rare as the Caninde Macaw should not be considered as pets, every available specimen should be included in a breeding programme.
NOISE FACTOR:
The raucous voices of macaws can cause disputes with close neighbours and even legal proceedings, so careful consideration must be given to this potential problem before purchasing such large parrots.

Lady Gouldian Finch Care

This Lady Gouldian Finch Care Guide has been created by Jean Ferguson to help all of the Gouldian Finch enthusiasts around the world to care for and to breed their beautiful and exotic Gouldian Finches.

Learning the fundamentals of Gouldian finch care is essential if you want to have healthy birds. When considering and planning for temperature on a day to day basis, Lady Gouldians like to be warm.

Keeping the room temperature between 71 degrees F. and 77 degrees F., (21-25 degrees C.) is suggested. Temperature and humidity will be discussed in greater detail in the section for Gouldian Finch Breeding.

Humidity of 55% is adequate. Little humidity gauges can usually be found in shops which sell reptiles. Depending on the climate where you live, it’s a good idea to get a gauge just to keep track.

When breeding season comes around, humidity is of greater concern. You will want to know what the humidity is so you that you can supplement it if needed by providing a humidifier.

Lighting for day to day living can be as simple as placing your cage in a spot that has a southern exposure. A spot where the birds will get plenty of natural sunlight will be ideal.

Most often that is not possible and supplementing with full spectrum lighting set on timers will be needed.

How to Care for Lovebirds and Lovebird Information

Blue Masked Lovebird

   Lovebirds are some of the most fascinating little parrots!

  Lovebirds are active, cheerful and beautifully decorative. These petite 'pocket' parrots are very intriguing! Lovebirds come from the drier regions of Africa. Because they evolved from a very harsh environment, they are very suited to captivity. Not only do they have a good disposition, these charming, brilliantly colored little pets are very hardy and easy to care for. They can also provide you with a successful breeding experience.
   In the wild lovebirds live in flocks. They will often bond with a mate for life and show fierce loyalty and affection to their family. If you can earn there affections as young birds, you will receive that same fierce loyalty from your little friends. They are very social with both their keepers and their mate.
   The rewards of keeping a single lovebird can be astonishing. The amazingly determined spirit of a pet lovebird can far surpass other small parrots, both in their ability to learn tricks and to show affection. But because of their strong devotion, a lovebird kept singly will require vast amounts of time and affection in return in order to thrive.

What's in the name ? = Agapornis
agapein	means	"to love" in Greek
ornis	means	"bird" in Latin

   Lovebirds also won't easily switch loyalties from one companion to another, whether it is to another bird or to another human. On the other hand, unless they are very attached to their keeper, lovebirds are not going to learn a lot of tricks or necessarily want to have a lot of handling.
   If you simply want to enjoy the antics and chatter of these colorful little birds, get two to keep in an indoor cage. Or you can get more to keep in an aviary. They are very flamboyant, and are wonderful birds to observe and enjoy.

Distribution    Lovebirds belong to the genus Agapornis. There are nine species of lovebirds and they are all native to Africa except one. The exception is the Grey-headed Lovebird which comes from the island of Madagascar. Most lovebirds live close to the equator where they inhabit dry savannah regions. There is one exception, a forest dwelling lovebird, the Black-collared Lovebird.
Description    The lovebird is a small stocky parrot mostly between 5.1-6.7 inches (13-17 cm). They have a large bill and a tail that is either round or square. Their average life span is between 10-12 years with some living even longer. The oldest recorded lovebird lived 17 years, and we have had one person state that their lovebird has lived for 25 years.
   The different species of lovebird are identifiable by their colors and markings. They vary greatly in their coloring, and each species can be viewed for their unique combinations. Younger birds are duller in color and they have black in their beaks. The young birds coloring intensifies as they reach maturity. Regardless of the species, mature lovebirds are gorgeous parrots.
  Three of the nine lovebird species are most commonly available lovebirds for pets. The other six are more rare, and in some cases, absent at least in the United States. The three common species are the Peach-faced Lovebirds, the Masked Lovebirds, and the Fischer's Lovebirds, and all three make wonderful pets. There are a variety of color mutations in lovebirds, developed from these three common species. This is especially true for the Peach-faced Lovebird, which can be bred in hundreds of different combinations of mutations. As a result, there are many new lovebird colors available.
   A wide variety of lovebirds can be found in the pet industry and from breeders. Some lovebirds and lovebird mutations that are commonly available include:

• Abyssinian Lovebird
• Albino Lovebird
• Black Masked Lovebird
• Blue Masked Lovebird
• Dutch Blue Lovebird
• Fischer's Lovebird
• Lutino Lovebird
• Peach-faced Lovebird

Care and feeding    In the wild, lovebirds feed on seeds, berries, fruits, grains, grasses, leaf buds, and agricultural crops of corn, maize and figs. Their food and water dishes are best if earthenware or porcelain as they will get gnawed if plastic.

• Bird Food
    Foods available for Lovebirds include formulated diets, either pelleted or extruded, seed only diets, and small parrot mixes which offer a mixture of both. There are pros and cons to feeding only a formulated diet as well as feeding only a seed diet.
• Formulated Diet:
     A formulated diet provides a good nutritional base so does not require the addition of vitamins. However it does not contain the phytonutrients (antioxidant pigments) that are found in vegetables, fruits, grains, and seeds. Phytonutrients are believed to boost the immune system, help a body to heal itself, and to prevent some diseases. Also, parrots can become bored with formulated diet due to the lack of variety.
• Seed Diet:
   A seed only diet offers much more variety but requires additional vitamin and calcium supplements. Lovebirds need not only nutritional requirements met but also variety for psychological enrichment.

A lovebirds's diet will consist of 1 1/2 to 2 ounces (45-60 grams) of feed daily for a single bird. A diet consisting of a small parrot mix along with a variety of supplements and vitamins is generally regarded as suitable. Also a formulated diet along with greens, fruits, and vegetable supplements but without additional vitamins is also regarded as suitable, and is a more current trend.

• Supplements
     Supplements include fresh vegetables, greens, tree branches for the bark, some fruits, and millet spray. Some of the fruit supplements include berries, apples, grapes, pears, bananas, and kiwi. Some of the greens and vegetable supplements include spinach, endive, watercress, chickweed, radish, parsley, dandelions, carrot tops, corn on the cob, peas, endive, field lettuce, and various garden herbs.
     Additional proteins can be offered such as nuts. Try some unshelled peanuts as well as hazelnuts, walnuts, Brazil nuts, and chestnuts.
    A cuttlebone, or gravel and oyster shell in a separate dish can be offered to provide calcium. Do not feed avocado as it can be toxic to birds!
    Vitamins can be added to the food or drinking water.
• Water
    Lovebirds drink a lot of water, so will need fresh drinking water every day.
• Bird Baths
     Most lovebirds love a bath either in a flat earthenware dish or by spraying them with a light mist of lukewarm water. If you use a bathing dish, you will see the birds perch on the edge and dip their heads and upper bodies in the water and beating their wings. They prefer this kind of bath to getting into the water.
• Bird Grooming
     Lovebirds generally maintain their nails and beaks on their own through climbing and chewing. Another good use they make of their tree branches.

  

Housing     Lovebirds are very active birds. When housing your lovebird, bird cages or an aviary best suited to them must provide a lot of space.

• Bird Cages:    A minimum of 32 x 20 x 20 (81 x 50 x 50 cm) per pair of birds is recommended with about four perches, feed and water dishes and an area for a bath. When you use a small cage, you must let your pet out daily to fly around.
     If you are housing pairs of lovebirds here are a few guidelines: Try to house only one species of lovebird as mixing species can cause serious fights. House either one pair of lovebirds or three pairs, never two pairs or there will be fighting. Each pair needs about 35 cubic feet of space.
• Bird Perch:
     Provide one or two perches about 3/4' in diameter and dishes hanging from the side for feed, water, and grit. Try to place the perches away from dishes so the food and water dish do not become soiled with bird droppings.    Do not use plastic because your bird will chew and break the plastic and it can become hazardous. Tree branches of a similar size make good perches and will help to wear the claws down naturally.
• Bird Hide / Nest Box:
    Lovebirds like special resting places. Nest boxes placed up high, all at the same level and all of the same type work well and help prevent fights.
• Aviary:
    A roomy indoor aviary, a bird room, or an outdoor aviary (depending on your area) are all good choices. The aviary needs plenty of light and fresh air. The outdoor aviary needs to have a protected shelter that can be heated and cooled where necessary. Flights are recommended to be a minimum of 6' x 6' x 3' (183 x 183 x 91 cm) with plenty of perches or branches at least 1 1/2" (15 cm) thick.

Maintenance    It is important For the health of your lovebird, it is important to keep bird houses and accessories clean and in good shape. Basic cage care includes daily cleaning of the water and food dishes. Weekly you should clean and disinfect the cage. Wash and completely dry the perches and toys whenever they become soiled. In the aviary, sand floors should be renewed annually.


Social Behaviors    Lovebirds as pets, as well as in the wild, are very social birds. Generally and in most situations, it is thought to be essential for their good health and happiness that they be kept in pairs, not singly. If keeping a single lovebird, you must provide the necessary social interaction that it is missing from another bird. These birds develop fierce loyalties to their keeper or their mate.
   Aside from their social nature toward you or their mate, lovebirds can be extremely aggressive towards other birds. You must be certain that all pairs get along together, and that they are true "pairs", not mismatched. Bonded pairs constantly groom each other and will feed each other from the crop during breeding season and all year round.
   These little birds will chatter all day long. They will hide in their nest box if they are startled by a sudden noise, if they spot a potential predator, or if it gets cold and windy.
Handling/Training    Lovebird training is best accomplished with a young bird. To have a tame lovebird, its also best to work with a single bird. Young birds have an amazing ability to learn tricks and be affectionate. Adults on the other hand, are very difficult to tame and generally won't learn a lot of tricks or imitate behaviors. Hand-raised youngsters are easiest to work with. They are already quite socialized and tame, but unfortunately they are not always available.
   Taming involves acceptance and trust between you and your bird. It means spending a lot of time with your bird daily. Start with talking softly and making slow movements. Once your bird is comfortable with you, then you can begin hand-taming. Use a dowel and push it gently against the birds chest while offering a treat to coax it up onto the dowel. This may take many tries. Once it is comfortable with stepping up onto a dowel, substitute your finger for the dowel.
   Lovebirds are not considered one of the best talkers, and only some may learn a few words.
Activities    Lovebirds awaken with the dawn, get a drink, eat, and then immediately begin to chirp. They will generally quiet down by mid-morning and resume their chirping in the late afternoon.
   These birds are very active, flying and climbing about, gnawing on wood or chew toys, and grooming themselves many times all day. They love toys of all kinds such as seed bells, swings, ladders, mirrors, shiny objects, and wooden gnaws. A lovebird outside of it's cage will not stay on it's playpen, they like to explore. Be sure this room is safe with no open doors or windows, no toxic plants, no open water containers, and no hot stove.
Breeding/Reproduction    One of the pleasures of lovebirds is that they are easy to breed. For breeding lovebirds, each pair of birds will need 2 nest boxes for sleeping and nesting. These boxes need to be of the same type and size, and placed at the same height on the same wall.

Bird Care

 Pet birds for various qualities, including their relatively basic requirements. However, bird ownership does carry responsibility. When kept healthy, smaller birds will live for 10 years, while many parrots will see their 60th birthday, so it is important for owners to understand it is a lifetime commitment.
Birds can be fairly hardy animals, but owners should take them to a veterinarian for routine care and annual checkups. It is also a good idea to find an avian specialist in case of an emergency.

Cages

Since the majority of pet birds spend most of their lives in a cage, they need enough room to spread their wings out, at the very least. For finches and other small species, there needs to be enough room to fly from one perch to another, but not enough space between the bars to escape.
The cage should be kept above the floor on a counter or hanging from a secure hook. Wind and drafts can cause serious harm to birds, so the cage must not be near any open windows.
Many birdcages come with perches but, as the bird may gnaw at them, it is a good idea to replace them with natural, pesticide-free, non-cedar tree branches. Safe toys are also important to keep birds stimulated.

Food and drink

Birds need constant access to fresh water. The sipper bottle or bowl must be cleaned regularly, as birds tend to be very messy when drinking.
piece of cuttlefish bone, available in most pet stores, provides an important source of calcium. For other nutrients, there are many formulated pellet diets and seed mixes. These diets are usually provided alongside a variety of whole grains, seeds and fresh vegetables. An avian veterinarian can suggest a healthy combination for the specific type of bird.

Preventative care

With their fast metabolism and short intestines, birds create a lot of droppings. It is important to clean out the bottom of the cage daily to prevent bacterial infection. Many cages come with removable bottoms, so cleaning is just a matter of sliding out the tray and replacing the soiled newspaper.
Daily cleanings give owners the chance to check on their pets’ health by counting droppings. Finding less than 30 in a day may suggest a metabolic problem and the need to visit a veterinarian.

Weight loss, skin problems and other illnesses can be hidden by feathers, but symptoms to look for include:

• Loss of appetite.
• Fluffing up.’
• Depression.
• Discharge from the nostrils and eyes.

Also, changes in behavior should prompt owners to seek medical attention.
A common cause of distress for birds is lack of rest. Some species need 10 to 12 hours of sleep each night. Many owners cover the cage with a sheet at night. It is best to ask a veterinarian about the optimal sleeping pattern for the species.

Flight

Psittacine birds—including parrots, cockatiels and budgerigars—should not be kept in the cage at all times, as their high intelligence benefits from exercise and freedom. Parrots, for example, have strong spatial memory, so they can negotiate closed flight areas and find their cage again much more easily than a canary could.
Meanwhile, trying to catch a free-flying finch is almost impossible, unless the owner tires it out to the point of exhaustion, which could be harmful to it. So, flight freedom depends on species.
When a bird is flying outside its cage, windows should be not only closed, but also covered, as birds can seriously injure themselves flying into clear glass.
Wings can be clipped temporarily to prevent flight until the next moult. Properly clipped wings will allow the bird to soar down from a perch, but prevent mid-air collisions or easy escapes. Again, the appropriateness of this measure varies by species, so it is best to first consult a veterinarian.

How to protect your Cockatiel parrots from Illnesses

Cockatiels are one of the most lovable pets in the world. They are a valuable treasure to the owner. Cockatiels, just like humans, need a lot of attention and care. Parrots as pets are delightful but they can become extremely moody and temperamental. This may also depend on its health and diet.
Good cockatiel care involves not only regulation of diet but also of hygiene and cleanliness. Cockatiels, like most of its cousins in the parrot kingdom, are prone to some typical illnesses. Unfortunately, many are fatal and result in death even before the malady is diagnosed. As a result, cockatiels should always be kept under close supervision.
A wise owner of cockatiels is one who is aware of common cockatiel illnesses so that he/she can at least try and help. Many maladies are airborne and they set in even before you realize. It is advisable to seek professional advice whenever you suspect a crisis.
Some of the common illnesses are:
Pacheco’s Virus - It is easy to diagnose your cockatiel if Pacheco’s Virus infects it. The bird needs to be administered a strong oral dose of Zovirax medication. Vaccines are easily available for this disease, but they can bring about tumors and carriers. Evidence shows that parrots are likely to die shortly after inoculation.
Polyomavirus - Polyomavirus largely attacks the young ones. This virus is again air-borne and complicated to control. Look for clinical warning signs like depression, delayed crop emptying, anorexia, diarrhea, regurgitation and weight loss in parrots.
Beak and Feather Syndrome - Spread by feather dust and dried feces, parrots infected with PBFDS show abnormal growth of new feathers. The new-fanged shafts look as if swollen and gnarled. Another type of PBFDS symptom that is quite prevalent is growth abnormality of the beak. There is currently no known cure for this disease.
Wasting Disease - A highly contagious disease Wasting Disease is not as fast in opening out as Pacheco’s. Wasting Diseases are hard to reckon since they lie dormant for years, until hosts are on a move. Studies on parrot show Wasting Diseases have a severe effect on nervous systems extended to all of the major organs, triggering seizures, paralysis, and tremors, and also heart attacks. There is no known medication available for Wasting Disease, but changing the food patterns of the parrots by including easily digestible diet supplements may prolong the life of a victim.
Papilloma - Appearing primarily in the throat or vent areas, papilloma is caused by a virus infection similar to warts. It grows large enough to block the vent, making it difficult or even impossible for the host to defecate. Parrots diagnosed of Papilloma can be cured after successful laser surgery.
Psittacosis - Psittacosis is another most dreaded bacterial infection that commonly occurs in the cockatiels and is transmitted via feather dust and dried feces.
E-coli - This bacterium is not so lethal if it is acknowledged and treated at initial stages. In fact, when cockatiels are diagnosed of having Ecoli their droppings usually have the appearance of diarrhea, giving out strong odor.
Gout - Calcification of the kidneys among the parrots is common especially among the babies who are aged 4-8 weeks. In such cases, victims rarely survive. Initially they show regurgitating and slight dehydration after feedings. In addition, babies who appear slightly smaller than their regular sizes, with protruding neck bone have the largest possibility of incurring Gout.
Runny Nose or Nasal Discharge - The most common of all nasal discharge is laxity of Vitamin-A in cockatiels. This deficiency can be corrected by increasing the food quantities that are rich in vitamins and mineral contents especially.

Do You Know The Things About Parrots

 
 by: Daci Georgieva

 

1. Parrots need daily contact with their owners. – Some kinds need more care and attention than others. Cockatoo, Lorry and Jacob need special care every day. Amazons, Budgie, Conures small Africans parrots need also (though not that much) their owners’ daily attention for keeping up their spiritual tone and socializing.

2. Breeding a parrot could be a very expensive pleasure. – The issue expenses include buying a bird, a big enough bird cages and a first check-up by qualified vet. Subsequently the other required expenses are for food, MANY bird toys, a routine check up, whetting up of the wings (it’s required, not obligatory), nails and beak and sometimes help from a vet in case of emergency. Birds medicine is a very specialized field. Normally, the tests and procedures in the birds treatment cost a lot. Furthermore, it’s typical for birds to express symptoms of some kind of illness when the illness is in an advanced phase (in case when it passes sharply). Because of that fact to start a treatment in this phase is something we often call “emergency help” and as a result it’s more expensive.

3. The parrots are loud. – They live in nocks and make big groups. In the wild they keep contact one another, by the sounds they make when there is no visual contact between them. The bird has the ability to accept you as a member of its flock and that is why the sounds it makes can be interpreted as “keeping in touch” with you. Early in the morning, at sunrise, parrots call the nock to start the new day. At sunset they call the nock again to gather it and execute alighting in order to prepare themselves for their night sleep. These sounds are normal for the parrots and their owners should not get angry and harm them using mean words and to restrain them in those moments.

4. Not all parrots speak. - Although almost all parrots have the ability to learn to speak the human language, not all of them have the desire to start to speak. Some of the most chatty parrot species are the Jacob, Budgie, Yellow-forehead Amazon and double yellow-forehead Amazon, but even for these ones there is no guarantee they shall do it.

5. Birds love to make a mess all around them. – They have their very important place in the wild world because their main function is to “afforest” the wood. Regarding to that, the bird takes a piece of its food and the rest throws on the ground. So be ready to spend a lot of your time cleaning after your parrot. You must feed your bird only seeds. Variety makes birds healthy. Consider just for a moment: how long do you think you shall remain in good health if your food includes only seeds and water? That goes for the parrots, too. Actually, there is a good rule regarding the birds which says: “If something is good for me, it’s good for my parrot as well”. You should try the system with the three bowls: Fresh water, Fresh fruits and vegetables, packed food, nuts and seeds.

6. Parrots need to take bath regularly. – The origin of most of them coming from the rainforests where they take a shower app. 3 times a week, no matter if they want it or not. The clean water they use is very important for their feathers. Some of them prefer taking a bath under the shower with us, others – to be splashed with water (for example with sprinkler for bedewing flowers) or to be placed under the stream of water in the sink. Often they also prefer taking a bath in a bowl filled with water. You should try each of these methods until you find the preferred way of your parrot for taking a bath.

7. Parrots like to destroy things. – In their natural environment they spend 90% of their day searching for and consuming food. Living in our homes they receive their food without making any effort which results in some need inside them to “rediscover” and fulfil their time, which normally they spend in searching for food. If you don’t provide them regularly with different bird toys they could start to use your furniture for that purpose. Parrot toys are made specially to be ruined. If the toy cannot be destroyed in that point, there is possibility the bird might not be interested in it. It’s recommended to replace the toy with a different one periodically, to avoid the parrot to get bored.

8. The parrots bite. – Sometimes they bite the hand that feeds them and the people they are familiarized with. This is not like a dog’s bite. It’s true, they bite in some cases because of aggression but more often it is a result of fear or anger. Sometimes as a part of their daily communication, they “bite” each other and expect their natural behaviour to be tolerated by us. Biting is one of their means of communication which makes many people feel themselves hurt and ignored by their pets. To state that simply: birds have an ability to communicate perfectly. By biting they say simply: “I don’t like that” and this way of their expression is so effective. People often are not that honest and convicting and tend to be resentful, when someone else or even a bird is more honest in its attitude than us.

9. The parrots are not appropriate pets for kids. – They are not good choice for kid’s pets because of their incredible intellect. They live long and require daily attention and contact with their “human flock”. A kid goes through a lot of changes and phases of his/her style of living (school, marriage, building a family, moving etc.) which makes it almost impossible to keep a life-long relationship with such an intelligent creature as a pet.

How to Grow Wheat grass

Wheatberries

The whole process from sprouting to harvesting takes about a week.  First, you need to buy some winter wheat berries (or hard wheat berries), preferably organic! Go to any good health food store with bulk supplies. They are a reddish, hard grain.
Rinse the wheat berries then place them in a wide-mouth jar or a bowl and cover them with water. Cover the bowl with a towel or cheesecloth and let sit overnight (12 hours). Rinse the wheat berries then let them remain damp (a wet paper towel on top of them can help) for the next 12 hours. Rinse them at least once during this period. If it is very hot and therefore bacterial growth is a concern, add a drop of bleach to the water you originally soak the wheat berries in (1 tsp bleach per gallon of water is a general guideline).
After this 24 hour period you will see that the wheat berries have begun to sprout. Now you’ll want to “plant” your wheat berries. I use special flats to do this. They are plastic square containers with small holes for drainage. Most good nurseries can supply you with one. You can also use plastic cafeteria trays or pie pans, but the container should be very shallow, and it is best if you can add some small drainage holes. Add about 1 inch of soil (a 50:50 mixture of top soil and peat moss is best) and make it flat and even. Add your sprouted wheat berries and spread them into a flat, single layer. Sprinkle a tiny bit of water (don’t over water or you’ll get moldy seeds!). You can either cover this tray or place the tray in a dark closet (this mimics the period in nature when the seed is under the ground).
After about two days the seeds will have hearty stalks of grass sprouting from them. You can now let them be exposed to the sun (but make sure it has shade).

Flats for growing wheatgrass

Water the flat then let it grow for another 4 or 5 days. Voila! Fresh wheatgrass for a handful of change (1 lb of berries is about 80¢ and makes a flat).
Cut the grass with scissors and feed it to your birds.
You should start another flat right away, since wheatgrass is best on its first growth so should not be used again. You can use the second-growth grass as compost (some people do use the second growth, then compost the remainder).
Feeding Wheatgrass
Like all things, don’t go overboard. Wheatgrass is high in iron so you don’t want to overload your birds’ diet with it.  Three to four times a week is sufficient, and just a handful of grass is enough each time. Cut the grass about an inch up from the seed and serve. There is no need to worry about the grass spoiling in the cage, another great benefit of this green food.  If you are concerned about bacteria or mold at the base of the grass, after cutting, soak the grass in a quart of water with 5 drops of grapefruit seed extract for 5 minutes, rinse thoroughly, then serve.
Troubleshooting
My wheat berries won’t sprout, or only a few sprout.
The problem could be old, “dead” seeds that have been sitting on a grocery store shelf for to long. Try to buy at health food stores that supply bulk seeds and grains and refresh their supplies on a regular basis.
My wheatgrass has some moldy areas around the roots.
The problem could be overwatering. Water only enough to give moisture, not so that mold can grow. If you are worried about mold and bacteria that you cannot see, cut the grass about 1 inch up from the seed/roots; soak the grass in a solution of water and 5-10 drops of grapefruit seed extract for 5 minutes. Rinse the grass thoroughly, then serve.
My wheatgrass is limp and droopy.
The problem could be too much sun. Wheatgrass grows best in indirect light, under the shade of a tree or the like.

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A special note for skeptics and those who dismiss anything that does not come encased in a gelatin capsule or does not require a medical prescription…

Who has studied the effects of young grasses in vivo or in vitro?   Yoshide Hagiwara, MD; Tsuneo Kada (Japan Research Center of Genetics); Dr. Chiu-Nan Lai (University of Texas); Dr. Arthur Robinson (Linus Pauling Institute); Dr. Thelma Arthur (Arthur Testing Laboratory); Dr. Yasuo Hotta (University of California, San Diego). This is only a partial listing of scientists studying the effects of young grasses.  Below are references from the world biomedical literature (much of it from peer-reviewed medical journals) on the effects of phytochemicals and chlorophyll-related compounds.
Remember, wheatgrass is not a drug or herb. It is a living food. By harvesting and juicing the grass, then drinking it immediately, you are ingesting a very live, nutritious green juice. The American Cancer Society and the National Institute of Cancer advice all of us to increase the number of green vegetables in our diet. One ounce of wheatgrass juice can make a significant difference in your diet. It is accepted fact that green foods are nutritious and have both antimutagenic and antigenotoxic benefits. The nutritional analysis of wheatgrass is scientific fact. Put two and two together, and it is not difficult to see why this is such a beneficial food for your diet as well as your birds.
Much of this information I learned from a grower at my Farmers’ Market and from the bible of wheatgrass: “The Wheatgrass Book” by Ann Wigmore, which is available in the Parrot-Parrot Book Store and contains much more detailed information; it is a must in any sprouter’s library!

Get To Know These Four Types Of Finches

by: Kevin Green

Finches have been kept as pets for hundreds of years. And because of its popularity among bird lovers, they have been cross-bred many times that you could actually now enjoy different types of finches. An amazing thing about finches is that they are completely sociable and are at home in aviaries and cages. In fact, it is said that there are more finches being domesticated than being set free in the wild. With proper guidance and rearing, your finches can thrive in a man-made ecosystem and can live for several years.

There are about 145 species of these birds around the world. About 16 varieties of finches live and thrive in the United States. Although it is a small percentage compared to the actual number of finch species, it is enough for many pet lovers to enjoy different types of birds in their homes. Among the characteristics common to all finches are their conical bills and colorful, vibrant plumage.

Lawrence’s Goldfinch - Abundance of seeds and water attracts the Lawrence’s Goldfinch. According to published studies, they stay in one place for one year and then migrate to another the following year. The Lawrence’s Goldfinch differ from the American Goldfinch in that it has less yellow plumage compared to the latter. Their movement is usually east to west rather than northwards or southwards. They settle on fields with plenty of weeds and in areas where there are many seeds and grasses. The Lawrence Goldfinch is one of the popular types of finches that are considered as hobby birds.

Zebra finches – This type of finch is definitely a popular choice by bird enthusiasts. One thing that stands out about them is their zebra strips on the tail, which is alternatively black and white. They are also among the most colorful of the types of finches and are really attractive when placed in a garden. Because they don’t require too much maintenance, Zebra finches are also recommended for beginners. If you want to learn how to raise birds, start with this breed because they are easy to keep and maintain.

Red Crossbill – The Crossbill is found mostly in coniferous forests in the continental United States as well as Canada. They have the ability to breed during winter seasons, which is uncommon among the several types of finches. They can survive well in fluctuating seasons, but make sure that you keep the temperature of the cage just about right to ensure their safety and health. The way they extract seeds from coniferous trees is that they bite the cones down using their crossed beak until the scales begin to open.

Pine Grosbeak - The Pine Grosbeak is among the largest types of finches. They can grow up to 10 inches in length and can survive in the wild in different weathers. One peculiar characteristics of the Pine Grosbeak is that they their somewhat slow movements especially when looking for food. They can mostly be found in Canada and northern United States. They usually come in large groups and forage for food in groups.

Best Dogs for families- Top 3 best dog breeds for families

 by: Kristle yik

How do you find a best dog breeds for your family? First, you should start with doing some research into all the different dog breeds that you like. You should research all the breeds that you like carefully and choose the one are very suitable to your family's lifestyle. A wonderful dog can teach children all about love, and growing up with your children together, your children will cherish for a life time. Here are a list of the top 3 best dog breeds for families.

Golden Retriever- Golden Retrievers are the one of the most popular family dog breeds in the United States. They are very gentle and always patient with the children. They are lovable, well mannered dog with a great charm. They are a friendly, and loyal dog. They are intelligent so that they are easy to train dog breeds. Their life expectancy are about 10-12 years.

Miniature Schnauzer- the Miniature Schnauzer is an loving, playful, and happy dog. They are very intelligent, devoted and affectionate. They are good with the children and can get along with other dogs and small pets. They are a good family companion pets. The miniature schnauzer is also a good dog for aprtment life. Their coat are also a good dog for apartment life. Their coat are also not hard to groom, it may need some care. Their life expectancy are about 15 years.

Labrador Retriever- labrador retriever is another great retriever does very well in any home. They also is one of the most popular dog breeds in United States. They are highly intelligent, loyal, affectionate and eager to please dogs. They are friendly, loving, and superb good with the children and also with other dogs and small pets. Labradors are very easy to train and obedience dog. The only negative thing about this dog is they can be a picky eater. Their life expectancy are about 10-12 years.

The all dog breeds above are generally as the best dog breeds for families, while there are always have an exception to the rules. Understand all dog breeds at www.dogbreeds-and-doggie.com

Tips For a Healthy Cat

 by: Todd Rip

If you love your cat you’ll want to know how to keep your cat as healthy as possible. There are many different things that could come into play and be dangerous to your cat's health, so it's important to know what to look for to keep your cat healthy her entire life.

The typical house cat will go through three main life stages. The exact duration of each stage varies between different cats and different breeds, but the time frame is generally quite similar between cats. Cats begin their lives as kittens, and during this process they are constantly growing and developing. It's very important to make sure they are getting proper nutrition and care during this time, as they are especially vulnerable to disease and the elements when young. Make sure your kitten is warm at all times, and is eating a healthy diet of nutritious food. You should also take your kitten to the vet to get shots to protect it against diseases, and to get it spayed or neutered. Kittens have usually reached adult cat hood at around one year old, though some kittens continue growing until they're over two years old.

Once your cat has reached adulthood, the point where she has stopped growing, she continues to live a normal adult life, until around age eight or nine. During this time as an adult, your cat is stronger, and less vulnerable to the dangers that are posed as a kitten. However, your focus should be switched to maintaining a healthy adult cat, in addition to protecting your cat from possible health risks as an older cat. Keeping your adult cat at a healthy weight is also important, as an overweight cat is more likely to get other health problems.

Annual trips to the vet should be a top priority, to check up on your cat's health and detect any problems early. You should also keep your eyes peeled for the first signs of diseases that show up in older cats, like heart disease and feline diabetes.

Cats over the age of eight or nine are considered senior cats, entering their last stages of life. However, there is still much that can be done to ensure your senior cat has a healthy life. It's a good idea to go to the vet twice a year at this point as an additional step to detect any health problems early. Focusing on dental health is also very important now, and it may be necessary to adjust your senior cat's diet to accommodate any health issues. For example, a cat with weak teeth may need a more moist diet, while an overweight cat should go on a weight control diet. These tips can ensure your cat will live a happy, healthy life.

Parrot Food: Which Types to Feed Your Pet

 by: Paul Nedrich

There was a time when parrot food was only about seeds. This really is so simply because seed products are thought to contain the the majority of vitamins and minerals that are essential for bird development. Seeds are likewise the most typical element in a bird's diet plan. The commercially created ones usually might have the balance and various types that a normal bird will need. But these times, seeds aren't the sole ones that are being given to these avian species. As bird breeders grow in knowledge and expertise in coping with their pets, they are now a lot more mindful of the numerous outcomes of diverse foods to their pet parrots. The pellet is yet another choice apart from seeds. Some would probably declare that pellets are actually healthier for a bird's diet plan than seeds. One of the explanations may be that pellets give ideal nutrients and the entire nugget is digestible. Compared to the seed that leaves the hull behind, the pellet is completely edible and therefore there is absolutely no waste product that comes about along the way.

Another food alternative that bird breeders have is to get organic and natural. Whatever this entails is offering food item that is natural or fresh or home made. This might possibly include fruits, pasta, vegetables and some vitamins and mineral supplements. But bird breeders should always understand that just before offering their bird any of these or picking out this sort of eating plan, an overall consultation with a veterinarian should be done first. A veterinarian can really help pick which combination of a range of food would have the correct quantity and right form of nutrition the pet bird should have.

Some of the concerns for this would be that table food or "human food" that is fed to birds may not be acceptable for them if they possess an excessive amount of sodium or if the size is not suitable for the bird. Small sizes should be taken into account when serving these especially when giving nuts. A justification that this kind of feeding is looked at is for variation. In reality, avian species also get tired of having to eat the same thing again and again. Not to mention that they may not be receiving adequate and assorted nutrients from the same food. Bear this always in mind when giving parrot food. Furthermore, do not ignore the need to consult with a veterinarian first before making a choice which diet program to pick.

It's well known that we now have food sorts which are good and helpful for your bird's health and fitness. In contrast, there are also food varieties which should be prevented at all costs. Samples of these would be foods that are too salty or too sweet. Those with alcohol and caffeine should also be prevented. Also included in this list are garlic and onions. Curry powder is a no-no. Mushrooms are not motivated too because some forms may contain fungus that can detrimental to your bird's health. As well as leaves that are found in tomatoes. Avocados in their entirety are also unhealthy for your bird as they can cause cardiac arrest. Stay away also from plants such as amaryllis, shamrock, azaleas, lantana, and daffodil among a good many others. These types of plants could bring different kinds of health issues that can range between gastrointestinal problems to depression.

Certainly, picking out which parrot food to feed your bird is something that is not done flippantly. Nonetheless just do bear in mind that what is healthy for you may also be healthy for him but consider so when you have got the consent of the veterinarian. You would know that you are doing a fantastic job at taking care of your pet if his feathers are gleaming, his beak is smooth and solid, his stool is well formed and his eyes are clear and glowing.

Puppy Training

 by: Gareth Hoyle

Is puppy training absolutely necessary?

As anyone who owns a dog will know, if you train a dog early enough it will save you time and money in the long run, not to mention it adding a few years to your life by avoiding unnecessary stress. A dog can be almost as time consuming as having a child. Puppy training is a must for anyone, unless you want to be chasing your dog down the road or changing your carpets on a yearly basis, you won't think twice about it. You and your dog will benefit from puppy training and the household in general will be a lot better off.

Can't I just do the puppy training myself?

Many people make the mistake of thinking they can do the puppy training themselves. It is not impossible of course, however most people would benefit from taking the dog to the professionals for the puppy training. It isn't just the dog that needs training; it is also the dog owner. The professionals know exactly what they are doing and have seen every scenario there is. Like humans, each dog is an individual, and the dog trainers can mould each training session to each dogs needs.

Where is the best place to go for puppy training?

Of course there are lots of excellent places to go for puppy training. It would be advisable that wherever you go, the puppy training firm belongs to the Association of pet Dog Trainers. There is one company that stands out amongst the others as a first class place to go to get your dog trained. The name of the firm I am referring to is www.ck9training.co.uk. They are very professional and will be sure to make any naughty little dog into a well behaved creature.

Bringing a new puppy into your home?

Puppies will grow up very quickly. Know how to train them right and they will become a good natured and well-mannered adult dog.

Before You Search For A Puppy

Before you get a new puppy, make sure you know exactly what kind of puppy to look for and how to raise and train him.

Deciding Which Type of Puppy

The breed, type, size, activity level, hair color, hair length, and gender of your prospective puppy are personal choices and best left entirely up to you and your family. You will probably have read lots of well-meaning advice from pet professionals that advise you, for example, not to get certain breeds if you have children, not to get large dogs if you live in an apartment, and not to get active dogs in the city. In reality, all breeds and types of dogs can be wonderful or problematic with children. It very much depends on whether or not the puppy was trained how to act around children and the children were taught how to act around the puppy. Because of their lower activity levels, large dogs adapt more quickly to apartment living than little dogs. Big dogs just take up more space. And active dogs can live in cities just as active people live in cities. In fact, city dogs tend to be walked and exercised more than suburban dogs. In the long run, it will be you who will be living with your puppy and teaching it to adjust to your lifestyle and living arrangement.

Selecting Your Individual Puppy

It is vital however, in your puppy search that you know how to evaluate whether your prospective puppy is physically and mentally healthy. Research your prospective puppy's lineage to confirm that his grandparents and great-grandparents all lived to a ripe old age, and to check how many of his doggy family suffered from breed-specific problems. Long life is the best indicator of overall physical and behavioral health and the best predictor that your puppy will have a long life expectancy. Research well and most of all, please take your decision to get a puppy seriously. Each year, several million dogs are abandoned, given to shelters and euthanized, almost entirely because easily preventable and utterly predictable puppy problems were allowed to develop into much more difficult to resolve adult behavior, training and temperament problems. Train your new puppy and you will have a well behaved, loveable, forever family member!